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Heirloom-quality boots with undeniable verve I hope to be wearing for many many years.

storybook.oakabout 1 year ago
Jack & White Brothers Letterman ZEROBadalassi Carlo Mosto Minerva Liscio
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Maker

Jack & White Brothers

Model

Letterman ZERO

Leather

Badalassi Carlo Mosto Minerva Liscio

Last

Round Last

US Men's Brannock: 10.5D

Round Last: 10

Sole

Vibram 705 Tygum V-Bar Half Sole Neutral

Purchased from

Stitchdown Premium Discord

Why I own this

Style

Although I bought these boots new secondhand and didn’t get to choose this makeup, these stood out to me immediately as being special. The color of the Minerva leather is so striking, and yet very wearable with the indigos, blacks, and greens in my wardrobe. The pattern and last are sleek without feeling overly fancy. They truly hit a sweet spot of boots that feel special and essential at the same time.

How I sized

Brannock Measurements

I sized based on guidance from fellow SDP members based on my brannock size. I went .5 down from Brannock. I’m curious what Goto-San would have recommended if I had asked him directly.

Use & wear

Office Work
Travel
Outdoor Activities
Wet Conditions
Snow

I wore these boots as I would any cherished daily driver. I didn’t baby them, but I also didn’t beat them. They accompanied me on long walks, weekend getaways, office days, and everything in between. I wore them in the rain and snow, and they suffered scuffs, scratches, and coffee spills. But after all that, a wipe and a brush later they’d be back to looking incredible again.

Leather

Badalassi Carlo Mosto Minerva Liscio
Color Change
Break-In
Patina Process
Care Routine

I can’t say enough about this Minerva leather. It was a bit stiff to start, but it settled in fairly quickly and has been comfortable throughout the 6 months. The clicking on these was clearly exceptional, because the break on both pairs is similarly consistent and attractive. I particularly love the combination of matching rolls and creases on the vamps. The color of the leather darkened with wear, perhaps due to a combination of sunlight and water. I noticed that they almost have a watercolor-like quality of spots and layers, especially across the toes. I look forward to seeing the color continue to evolve and deepen in the future. Care was very simple. I would wipe them down and brush them after each wear. During the 6 months, I conditioned them once with Skidmore’s and a couple other times with Bick 4. My goal was to care for them well and keep them looking their best. Prior to taking my final photographs, I gave them a good brushing and waxed the edges with Skidmore’s beeswax.

Fit

Toe Box
Arch
Length Feels Right
Volume Feels Right
Ball Feels Right
Satisfied with the Fit

Fortunately, the fit on these was generally spot on. I would note that the toe boxes are fairly compressed (both a bit narrow and a bit low relief following their collapse), so I stick with thin to medium socks to avoid cramping my toes. The true revelation for me is the arch support. The last feels so sculpted underfoot and through the waist compared to other lasts I’ve worn. It’s difficult to describe without wearing them, but it’s a special feeling to stand in these and let them hold your feet.

Craftsmanship

Jack & White Brothers Letterman ZERO
Construction
Design
Finishing
Stitching
Clicking

As previously mentioned, the clicking of the leather on these is stunning. The same goes for the construction, finishing, and stitching. The boots are simply flawless from a technical perspective. I’d like to focus, however, on an unexpected design element I have grown to love. Specifically, the 6 eyelets and how they are laid out, with four eyelets spaced evenly up the instep and then two eyelets a bit farther apart at the ankle. Unlike my service boots, I never have to unlace the top eyelets to get these boots on and off, and I can tighten the facings just how I like them with a single pull of the laces (i.e., no having to pull different sections of the laces between eyelets to even out snugness). It’s a seemingly small thing, but the way these have been designed makes me lament how I interact with nearly all of my other lace-up boots.

Sole & heel

Traction
Durability
Comfort

I don’t have a lot to see about the outsoles or heels, and I think that’s a good thing. They have been slow to wear down, as grippy as I need them to be, and never noticeably stiff or uncomfortable.

Final thoughts

Would Recommend

I doubt I will get to experience very many boots equal to these Jack & White Brothers Letterman Zeros. It’s a rare privilege to enjoy this combination of design, materials, construction, and finishing for a single wear, let alone 6 months of it. That in and of itself has been rewarding, and I’m forever grateful for it.

Written by storybook.oak
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