Flame Panda
Boondocker
206 Last
206 Last: 10D
Flame Panda
I worked with Peng to design boots that would match my Joe McCoy 1930s mobster jacket - black teacore Shinki and silver hardware to match the ball and chain zippers. These two pieces have been in the majority of my outfits this fall/winter - and will continue to be going forward as they've become my favorite boots and leather jacket. I'm excited to watch as the pieces continue to develop alongside each other.
I told Peng my Brannock measurement as well as the sizes that fit in all the boots I own - including a pair of Flame Panda in 181 last. He chose the size for me.
I ordered directly from Peng via Instagram for both of my pairs. It was a long wait, but worth it as they've become some of my favorite pairs.
I've worn these boots 87% of the days of the competition - so I've done almost everything in them. I usually take them off when I'm exercising, but they've been on my feet pounding pavement on my walk to and from the subway every day (~10k average steps) as well as at the hospital where they've helped protect my feet during intraoperative neurosurgical consultations and brain cuttings. (I'm about to complete a fellowship in neuropathology.) They've been on many playground outings with my daughter, trips to Hawaii, Normandy, and Paris - where they've been on hikes up mountains and on beaches. They've had a few brief dips in the ocean as well as through snow storms and torrential rain. They've been a point of discussion with the pathology residents - who now know a bit more about boots, leather made from Polish horses, and leather jackets. They were a gift to myself at the end of my pathology residency - and they've been a constant well loved companion on a pretty remarkable 6 months for me - the end of my time as a trainee and a symbol of some of what I've been able to accomplish thanks to decades of hard work.
I wanted to prove that black leather could make a mark in this competition. I think black teacore is some of the most beautiful aged leather, but only a few pairs have placed in past thunderdomes - so I wanted to help raise its profile. I will admit that these were a beast the first month or two. Flame Pandas are thick tough vegetable tanned leather. I had to wear them for only a few hours at a time to start - and then tried to increase that time as quickly as possible. I remember describing the midsoles to a friend as though I was walking on 2x4s. I think the subway steps helped the midsole flex, but it was rough for awhile. However, after about 2 months they really started to conform to my feet. Now you can feel my foot imprint and they're wonderful to put on; I just love lacing them up in the morning. In terms of care, I let them dry out when they get wet and brush them with a horsehair brush when they get dirty. I conditioned them at the end of the competition with saphir creme. I'll probably continue to do that every 6 months to a year. The teacore started to show through a few months into the competition at the flex points and along the inside where my shoes run against each other. There's toe spring and toe collapse, which helped the teacore show through a bit more. If someone kneels a lot I suspect those would be more prominent.
The heel locks in amazingly on both my Flame Pandas (the other is the 181 last). I have a fairly high instep - so I always have to unlace the shoes down to the third from last eyelet. It's a fairly wide toe box so I've never had an issue with my toes feeling constricted. I wear thin low to no cushion Darn Tough socks, which work well. These are my most comfortable shoes.
These are just remarkably well made. I love pouring over the details - and these just have great consistent clean stitching. I think the 206 last is beautiful and I love the toe collapse. The upper is unlined. The hardware has held up perfectly. I was initially upset with the clicking - due to the broken grain of the leather on the left forefoot, but I've come to appreciate how the raised edges of the breaking give another area for interesting patina development (as the furrows maintain the black while the ridges have it rubbed away). It's actually made me reconsider the same effect on an older pair and be more accepting of it.
They've held up well. They're grippy enough for snow and rain, but haven't worn away too quickly. The heels have plenty of life left and I've only gone through the stitches on the front most portion of the forefoot after almost exclusively wearing them for 6 months.
I've been overjoyed with these boots. I'd order them again in a heartbeat (even with the long wait time). I think they're some of the best boots I've handled and are even more remarkable given the relatively low cost compared to some other high end boots.