Patina Project
Home
Search
Open App
Browse
Makers
Models
Resources
Discord
Changelog
Roadmap
Help Center
Terms of Use
Privacy
© 2025 Patina Project
Open App
Loading the review

Great value and a classic leather

ewolarsky2 months ago
Rancourt & Co. Dirigo DerbyHorween Black Chromexcel
View album

Use & wear

Over the course of the Thunderdome, these shoes got eighty days of wear. This was mostly suburban life and office work, but I walked in the woods from time to time for variety.

Leather

Horween Black Chromexcel

There was basically no break-in needed for the black Chromexcel. One shoe developed an admirable roll at the break, but the other shoe creased in a less attractive fashion. My feet are slightly different sizes, and Chromexcel can be inconsistent, so this wasn’t a surprise. Ultimately, despite all the days of wear, the leather looks almost brand new in many places. This is a testament to the quality of Chromexcel, but not great for a shoe-aging competition.

Fit

115 Last: 8DUS Men's Brannock: 8.5D
Length Feels Right
Volume Feels Right
Ball Feels Right
Not Satisfied with the Fit

These derbys were comfortable from day one. The soles have molded to my feet admirably. I think the last could be a little narrower around the heel and a little wider at the toe, but that’s specific to my feet.

Craftsmanship

Rancourt & Co. Dirigo Derby

The construction and finishing quality are excellent, especially at this price point. As for the design . . . these are slightly odd shoes. The toe is fairly pointy to pair with a wedge sole, so the outcome is something of a Frankenshoe. It’s a dress shoe with a workwear sole. It’s a fun choice if you are into heritage footwear and live a lifestyle in which you can wear what you like most of the time.

Sole & heel

The Vibram Cristy is a name brand. It is comfortable and needs no break-in. My gait finds me striking the outside of the heel as I walk, and I wore about a centimeter off of the soles on the outsides of the heels over the eighty days I wore these shoes for the Thunderdome. They are not very durable, but that is part and parcel with the soft comfort.

Final thoughts

Black Chromexcel isn’t the best choice for the Thunderdome because it maintains its shine stubbornly for a long time. It is a teacore leather, and with patience the brown undercoat will reveal itself. These shoes are also part of Rancourt’s Dirigo line. This means they were made out of scrap material that would otherwise have been discarded. I’m proud to have rocked these shoes for the Thunderdome. This was an intersection of high quality, American made heritage footwear with sustainability and affordability.

Written by ewolarsky
Be the first to write a response

More like this