Briselblack
The Kai Jodhpur
Similar to Benzein Jodhpur Boots
Briselblack
Jodhpurs or engineers? The debate was fierce. I even owned a pair of clinch engineers for a while while trying to decide - sadly they were sized wrong. Ultimately I decided that I wanted Jodhpurs, as they would be easier to sneak into my corporate office undetected. Given how hard it is to find Clinch boots that fit a size US12 foot, I decided to turn to an Indonesian maker I had been following for a long time. Their design was handsome and unique and checked all of the right boxes: flat toe box, Cuban heel, round heel cup, and potential for beautiful rolls. Also, using horsehide as a leather would ensure my boots would be absolute tanks for when I walked my construction site. Lastly, I wanted something that would teacore, so I went with overdyed black leather.
Sizing was tricky as Indonesian makers are notorious for sizing too small. I asked the Stitchdown discord for their experience and they recommended TTS brannock. When I then contacted Briselblack and told them what size boots I wear, they recommended the same so I took the plunge. When they shipped they fit perfectly.
Ordering was simple - just messaging the maker on Instagram. My only regret is that they used a different sole than I asked for - I wanted Dr Sole half soles in black and I received full soles in Jade. This was a minor detail so I did not try to make a return. Lead time was for them to arrive a month before the contest - they were one month late so just in time thankfully. Overall I am happy and would like to order from them again if the need arises.
I wore these bad boys every other day whether going to the office or visiting a construction site. They saw dust, mud and concrete, as well as polished marble and carpet. I love these because they are tanks that can take a beating while still looking great with chinos in an office setting.
When ordering horse leather other than shell, there is a lottery to be won - rolls, or crinkly grain. I did not think I would win both on the same pair though! The right boot rolled beautifully and the left boot acquired a rugged grain. On their own they both look great but it certainly is an interesting contrast. In retrospect I wish I had gone with Shell Cordovan, but I definitely love these boots and don’t plan on replacing them or having similar ones made. I ordered overdyed horsehide because I wanted a teacore effect. The overdye is surprisingly resilient but the underlying brown leather has emerged in a few subtle spots: the heels, the welt, the toes, and around the straps. I am happy with how the transformation has been less about the color and more about the rolls and grain. The care routine consists of weekly brushing, wiping with a wet rag when dirty, bimonthly conditioning, and shining with cream polish as needed. I am amazed at how much this leather can heal with a little care, even when using clear polish. Some deep scrapes and cuts are barely even visible when I made no attempt to hide them, treating the boots with product evenly throughout.
I was afraid that after my long wait these would not fit. However, I am happy to say these are a perfect fit and I am now confident in being able to buy from Briselblack in my side again. Having narrow feet with short toes, the front feels spacious even after collapsing. With that said the foot is locked in and there is no wiggling.
Amazing value for money. I would say there were absolutely no flaws in the construction and design. Every stitch right where it belongs. My one and only comment stems from the hide used for the boots - there had been similar feedback in regards to clicking, and there was a lot of visible grain and a small gauge on one of the boots that suggests the maker was trying not to waste too much leather. Overall, I would happily work with them again, but avoid leather whose grain break can be uncertain.
The sole has held up great- I think I could do a second contest before needing a resole.
I am grateful for having the privilege of owning these boots made of fine Italian leather and crafted by the talented hands of Briselblack Bootmakers. It gives me hope that handmade goods and craftsmanship are not only surviving, but thriving in this automated, industrialized world. And my shoe rotation is all the more awesome for it!