Pre wear review.

hooknpunchabout 2 months ago
Hook & Punch Derby BootHorween Color 8 Chromexcel Strips (Western Floral Stamped)
Timeline photo 1
Not yet worn

Maker

Hook & Punch

Model

Derby Boot

Leather

Last

Munson Last

US Men's Brannock: 10.5D HTB/11 HTT

Munson Last: 10.5E

First fit is snug, would be worth switching back to my other EEE last

Sole

Heel

Purchased from

Self Made

Order info

Cost: 200 USD

Availability: Custom

Lead Time: 10 months

More about this item

Hand welted and soled, Horween ran a few western floral cxl horse strips for me and Iam excited to finally use the strips for a pair of boots. In future iterations i will adjust the pattern to give more clearance in the ankle, a wider or maybe bellowed tongue. Otherwise I am happy with the outcome

Why did you choose this item?

Availability: Custom

I like service boots, I wanted to use CXL horse strips for a pair of boots, Tannery Row said they will do a single hide run of floral print for me. Therefore, these boots.

How did you determine your size?

Munson Last: 10.5EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5D HTB/11 HTT
Foot Tracing
Circumferential Measurements
Community Advice

When I began shoemaking, I consulted Lisa Sorell on last fit, specifically for the munson last. We determined that a 10.5 EEE would be the best fit. I made a pair of mules and over time they stretched out to be almost too loose for wear without thick socks. I tried a 10.5 E last for these to hopefully limit that issue but I still may have gone too narrow.

What was the ordering process?

Purchased from Self MadeTotal cost: 200 USD Lead time: 10 months

I told myself "you should probably make a pair of boots for Thunderdome 5." Order was delayed, the maker had a busy life outside of his day job and made sure to get the boots finished absolutely last minute... What an ass.

Use & wear

Office Work
Leisure
Travel
Cold Temperatures
Hot Temperatures
Humid Climate
Snow
Wet Conditions

This will be a daily wear pair for office work. Will also wear to weddings and on vacation. It will look good with my suit

Leather

Horween Color 8 Chromexcel Strips (Western Floral Stamped)

Looks sexy new with a buff of mink oil. Excited to let these rip

Fit

Munson Last: 10.5EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5D HTB/11 HTT
Instep
Length Feels Right
Ball Feels Right
Too Little Volume
Not Satisfied with the Fit

I love the munson last. Its the only last I'll make boots on for now. I just grabbed the wrong pair for these boots. It was an experiment to try the narrower boot

Craftsmanship

Hook & Punch Derby Boot
Design

One of my cleanest pairs of boots yet. I still need to work on my sole finishing. Probably will upgrade my bench grinder set up. I could have made the tongue wider and added some length to the circumference of the ankle. The pattern is close to good. I know what I need to make is great

Sole & heel

Vibram 430 Oil-Resisting Mini-Lug Full SoleAbout 2 months, current sole

This will most likely be the only sole i use moving forward. Easy to glue, sew, grind, lasts long, doesn't slip and looks good enough. Easy to get from Ruby leathers

Vibram 430 HeelWorn for about 2 months, current heel

Same as the sole. It works

Final thoughts

Excited to dome these and see if my fit notes change

Written by hooknpunch
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