Reviews
Boot and shoe reviews from real owners. Honest evaluations of quality, construction, sizing, fit, comfort, durability, and patina development.
Reviews
Boot and shoe reviews from real owners. Honest evaluations of quality, construction, sizing, fit, comfort, durability, and patina development.
Absolutely in love with these JKs, the bison leather is incredible!
JK Boots O.T. in Bison SmoothBy Cradd710 • September 19, 2025"Hiked hundreds of miles in all types of terrain, from rocky mountain hikes in Wyoming, to blistering 100° weather in New Mexico. They take all the abuse and look better after every hike. These are on my feet almost every day, and I couldn't ask for a better boot..."Read the full review
Clinch Gary Boots: 8 month Review
Clinch Gary Boots in EQ Horsebutt White Dirty FinishBy jcurry • September 3, 2025"I mostly walk around the city in these boots. I work from home and often wear them throughout my day. I have gone on some very light hikes in the Bay Area but nothing too crazy. We get a good amount of rain in the PNW...."Read the full review
They look better in person, truly lovely boots
BLKBRD Custom Model in Rocado Ultraviolet Marbled Shell CordovanBy mknewman • September 2, 2025"Indoors actually, I would hate to mess these up...."Read the full review
7 month review
Nicks Tactical in Nick's / Seidel WeatherShield Coyote RoughoutBy Dethios • September 1, 2025"The default HNW Thurman fits very well. The leather was the longest break in if any bit I had so far. I felt a nice arch support. The instep was pretty snug and adding a delta arch insole made the top of my foot hurt from the pressure on my instep. I had to sand down the bottom of the insole to get it comfortable and it still put pressure on my bunion and Taylor's bunion zones (no issue with the oak tanned insole that came with the boot). If I were to order again, I would size thurmanHNW one width up if I wanted to add delta Insoles.
One mistake during breaking was over tightening the laces. The inflexibility caused constant pain in my deep poreneal nerves for both feet. That issue was exacerbated by the trifold I used for the gusset which formed a crease/hard point near my ankle. Things I learned regarding this:
1. Side tucking gusset feels better on my ankles and I need to pay attention more when making initial folds for gusset if using tri fold
2. Best for me to skip the first hook, then use 2-1-3 lacing
3. I don't need to tighten the eyelets as much, the tightening at the shaft and ankle is more important for shoe stability..."Read the full review
> V****g (I Am Ready for Your Hatred 😂)
XBXS Derby Boots in Horween Ultraviolet Shell CordovanBy nikolanottesla • September 1, 2025"I know XBXS holds a (to put it kindly) divisive place in the welted footwear community... and the criticisms about plagiarism and IP theft are, in a lot of ways, reasonable. My intent here isn't to mount a defense of XBXS's less reputable practices, but rather to point out that, whatever inspiration they're drawing from: these guys are really damn good at making boots.
This pair was modeled after a 2018 Viberg MTO that was, frankly, the most disappointing boot purchase of my life. Not only did Viberg have to remake them twice, but the final pair was a decidedly "meh" end result: poorly clicked leather on the toe, binding stitches that busted loose with brushing and visible stitching between the welt and insole. The design itself was so good, though, that a Viberg shell derby on the old 2030 became somewhat of a white whale for me.
Naturally, Viberg discontinued the derby boot model.
So, if I couldn’t get it from them…
Enter XBXS. After learning about them and reaching out via IG, I coordinated a custom derby boot build in Horween UV shell. What I received blew away any of the 3 Viberg attempts in attention to detail and in finishing. And they landed on my doorstep about 7 weeks after my first DM.
The 007 last is close enough to the original 2030 that the differences are negligible to me, and I actually think it looks better than the tweaked 2030 Viberg uses now - especially in the curvature at the back/heel of the boot. The pattern pretty much nailed the look I wanted (the facings sit closer when laced compared to a mid-2010s service boot example and the vamp might be a touch short, though that could just be the half sole playing tricks on the eye). Stitching throughout is spot-on and the shell is very well clicked. My only "real" critique is that the backstay pieces are skived a bit thinner than I'd like at their far edges.
Yes, these were modeled after something else, and some may call them whatever lies beyond being "inspired by." But the quality not only exceeds their design template: it allows them to stand on their own. It's obvious a substantial amount of time, craftsmanship and attention to detail went into making sure these left the shop done right.
My favorite boots I own, "knockoffs" or otherwise 🤷♂️..."Read the full review
Brilliantly Designed with Minor Execution Issues
Iron Boots Type 1 in Horween Pioneer HatchgrainBy nikolanottesla • August 31, 2025"There's no need to wax poetic about Lars' (or Ostmo's) design prowess - if you're enough of a sociopath to be on this platform, you already know. And if you've handled these boots (hell, even if you've only seen them in photos), the design speaks for itself. From the last to the pattern: everything is streamlined into a beautiful final product.
The IB team nailed the execution in a lot of ways. The stitching throughout, especially on the stitchdown to the sole, is about as flawless as you could ask for. The clicking (save the tongue - I'll explain why below) and the hand-applied patina finish were handled with a level of detail I haven't seen on some boots costing twice as much as these.
That said, there are a couple of misses. The eyelets, while beautiful aesthetically, were installed in a way that mushroomed the metal on the backside of the facing - leaving sharp edges that shredded through a few pairs of laces and forced me to have the issue repaired by a local cobbler. On top of that, the right boot suffers from pretty significant tongue slide, which causes some comfort issues after longer days of wear. I can't say for sure, but it may be tied to the noticeable difference in tongue leather thickness between the right and left boots. Either way, it's a clear miss...."Read the full review
Combat Boots That Will Never See Combat
Enzo Bonafe Military Derby Boot in Horween Black Shell CordovanBy nikolanottesla • August 29, 2025"As I understand it, before his passing, Enzo himself lasted every pair of shell cordovan shoes/boots at the Bonafe workshop in Bologna. These were constructed during that era, and while I really love them, the craftsmanship leaves something to be desired... and it makes me lean toward never buying another pair of Bonafes.
Within three months of receiving them, the welt on the right boot started separating from the upper, and I had to send them back to Italy. The repair was adequate, but it also left minor tearing on the interior lining that hadn't been there before. Nitpicky, maybe - but at this price point it feels pretty reasonable to expect a greater level of attention to detail.
Since then, the same welt-separation issue has slowly started to develop on the other boot. The stockist I ordered through refused to raise it with Bonafe, insisting it wasn't a real problem......"Read the full review
Hiking Heaven
Russell Moccasin Safari in Walnut Timberjack & Sahara TwillBy namawalla • August 21, 2025"These are the boots I reach for when I know I’ve got hard wearing ahead. Hiking, camping, or just working in the yard...."Read the full review
The Elegant Athlete: Bourbon Shell Chukka
Vass Hungary London Chukka Boots in Horween Bourbon Shell CordovanBy Huntsman • August 9, 2025"Chukkas are capable.
Chukkas compete in almost any role without hesitation — pairing with denim on a lazy Sunday or anchoring a tailored suit on a brisk Thursday in the city. They cross seasons with the ease of a practiced traveler, never out of place, never overdone.
Their roots in sport and saddle remain, lending them the quiet confidence to tackle cobblestones, pavement, or the creak of a wooden floor. They’re a boot for workdays that spill into dinners, for travel days that turn into discoveries.
Chukkas are, as such, beautiful — because here, form is function.
Their clean lines and ankle height aren’t style accidents, but the distilled result of purpose: enough coverage for support, enough openness for freedom.
Then comes the material — Horween Bourbon Shell Cordovan...
It is leather in its most storied form: dense yet supple, a mirror-like surface born of months of tanning, hand-oiling, and slow curing. Its color holds depth like a glass of fine whiskey — amber and chestnut tones shifting with the light, developing a patina that tells the story of its wearer’s miles. Shell doesn’t crease so much as ripple, a testament to its tensile strength and longevity.
Vass Hungary manufacturing process is nothing short of obsessive.
Hand-lasted so the upper conforms like sculpture to the last. Hand-stitched welt, its white thread an artisanal contrast against the bourbon leather — each stitch placed by eye and awl, every pass a deliberate act. Beneath, natural antiqued JR double leather soles with closed channel stitching and steel toe taps speak of durability dressed in elegance.
These things are elegant athletes.
Poised, balanced, built to move — yet executed with the grace of a handmade instrument. The bourbon shell chukka doesn’t simply accompany the wearer; it becomes part of their stride, aging into something rarer and more personal with every step.
In a world that mistakes noise for luxury, this boot whispers — and those who know, hear it clearly.
I am fortunate to have these and grateful when I take the pleasure to wear my bourbon chukkas...."Read the full review
Grail For Boot Craft & Grail For The Boot Cult
Viberg Service Boot BCT in Horween Black Teacore Double Cordovan ButtsBy Huntsman • August 3, 2025"The generational culmination of Horween’s tannery alchemy and Viberg’s bootmaking, this is more than footwear—it’s well over a six-month labor of love, science, and stubborn craftsmanship.
Viberg & Horween created this Black Pigment Teacore Service Boot from Horween’s Natural Crust Double Cordovan Butts—the most ambitious leather they’ve ever worked with. At 3.5–4mm thick, it’s the heaviest in Viberg’s 92-year history.
The leather begins life as Shell Cordovan—same hindquarter cut, same 60-day bark pit tan, same hot-stuffing, hand-oiling, and 90-day cure. But here’s the twist: the shell layer remains hidden. No secondary shaving. No added dyes to the teacore. What you’re left with is **hide over shell**—thicker, tougher, and unapologetically raw—then dressed in a deep black pigment that will slowly reveal its terracotta core through creases and wear.
This boot feels like armor but wears like sculpture. The teacore beneath will emerge uniquely with every scuff and flex, recording your journey like a leather-bound diary. No two pairs will age the same.
Built on the sleek yet anatomical 2030 last, it features:
270° stitchdown construction – water-resistant and resoleable
Brogue cap toe – subtle character
Brass eyelets – aged elegance
Dainite sole – grip without bulk
This is not just a grail for the boot craft—it’s a grail for the boot cult. For those who see leather not as a material, but as a medium. For those who want their boots to speak.
I am fortunate and have such gratitude to be able to wear these beautiful beasts...."Read the full review
Elegant Endurance: A Bootmaking Masterclass
Vass Hungary Budapest High Boots in Horween Color 8 Shell CordovanBy Huntsman • August 3, 2025"These boots exhibit a depth of character that only improves with age—a fully handmade, classically constructed, and genuinely luxurious boot that remains highly functional.
Crafted from Horween Shell Cordovan, the leather develops an exceptional patina over time. The finish is glossy yet understated, with natural ripple effects—those distinctive cordovan rolls—adding a tactile sense of personality and movement.
Vass’s interpretation of the Goyser welt is masterful: hand-stitched with precision, it delivers a bold, rugged aesthetic. The full 360° storm welt provides structural reinforcement, paired with toe-plated double JR soles that give the boot an unapologetically masculine edge.
These are for true enthusiasts of heritage craftsmanship. Clicked by the legend himself, László Vass, this is one of the finest examples of bootmaking today—a grail-worthy piece.
I am fortunate and grateful to wear these...."Read the full review
Challenge your expectations with the Thursday Challenger. An attainable Urban Logger.
Thursday Challenger in Maryam Natural Horsebutt Overdyed BlackBy ZelieDad • July 9, 2025"I wore these boots nearly everyday since I got them in January 2025. They've been in snow, rain, mud, and ice, and have held up better than I expected. Walks through my neighborhood, hikes in the woods, and general everyday use...."Read the full review
Reliably durable with thick leather and superb craftsmanship.
Nicks Ridgeline Hiking Boot in Seidel Max Support Walnut SmoothBy danjr92 • July 4, 2025"Mainly use these for backpacking, hiking, and camping trips...."Read the full review
