Tochigi Jeans #5 Khaki

The #5 Khaki variant has been used by heritage footwear manufacturers including Jakkrabbits Bootmaker and Viberg for limited release boots. The khaki color features natural earth tones that deepen with wear, making it suitable for both formal and casual leather goods applications.

Tochigi Jeans #5 Khaki is manufactured through a traditional vegetable tanning process at Tochigi Leather Company's facility, which was founded in 1937. The tannery operates 160 vegetable tannin pits filled with plant-based tannin solution extracted in-house from the bark of Brazilian Mimosa trees. Production capacity is approximately 7,000 pieces per month across all leather types.

The tanning process involves 20 intricate steps spanning a minimum of 90 days. Hides are immersed in tannin pits for approximately 20 days, moving through progressively stronger tannin solutions. After the initial pit tanning, the leather is air-dried naturally for around 10 days, then tanned once more to complete the process. Following tanning, oils and fats are applied to add softness and luster to the leather surface.

The #5 Khaki variant maintains the same thickness specifications as other Jeans colors at 1.8-2.0mm. As a full-grain leather, it retains the complete natural grain pattern of the hide, making it the strongest and most durable grade available. The smooth dyed finish provides a uniform khaki appearance while allowing the natural leather characteristics to develop over time.

The khaki color variant presents natural earth tones that create a casual aesthetic suitable for heritage footwear and leather goods. The color designation "Col. 5" distinguishes it within the Tochigi Jeans line, which offers multiple color variations.

With regular use, the leather develops a patina as ultraviolet rays and oils from handling interact with the surface. The color transitions to a deeper tone over time, creating unique character specific to each item's wear patterns. The high oil content contributes to a rich oily sheen that enhances as the leather ages. The supple and elastic texture remains consistent throughout the aging process, maintaining the leather's structural integrity while gaining visual depth.

Jakkrabbits Bootmaker has incorporated the khaki leather in Derby shoes with Goodyear welted construction. Viberg released a Limited Release Service Boot in the Khaki Tochigi leather, built on the 2030 Last using Stitchdown construction with a brogue cap toe, Ridgeway sole, full lining, and structured leather toe.

The leather requires specific maintenance practices due to its vegetable-tanned composition and high oil content. After each use, dust and dirt should be removed using a dry cloth or soft brush to prevent surface accumulation. For minor stains, a leather-specific cleaner should be applied to a cloth first, then gently worked into the affected area rather than applied directly to the leather surface.

Following cleaning, a cream designed specifically for vegetable-tanned leather should be applied to maintain the leather's suppleness and oil content. The leather is sensitive to moisture and may develop water stains if exposed to wet conditions. If the leather becomes wet, it should be wiped immediately with a soft cloth to prevent permanent staining. Water exposure can alter the color and texture if not addressed promptly.

Storage requires a breathable bag or cover to protect the leather from dust while allowing air circulation. Direct sunlight should be avoided during storage, as ultraviolet exposure can cause uneven color changes when the leather is not being worn. The natural aging process that occurs during regular use differs from the potential damage caused by prolonged sun exposure during storage.

The leather has been specified for various heritage footwear applications beyond its original use in jeans hip labels. Jakkrabbits Bootmaker offers Derby shoes constructed from the khaki leather designated as Col. 5, featuring handwelted Goodyear construction methods. Viberg's Limited Release Service Boot utilized the khaki variant in a package alongside chocolate Tochigi leather, demonstrating the leather's suitability for high-end bootmaking applications.

Beyond footwear, the leather is used in bags, belts, wallets, watch straps, and accessories where the combination of durability and aging characteristics is valued. The 1.8-2.0mm thickness provides structural support for these applications while maintaining enough flexibility for comfort during wear. The smooth finish and khaki color make it adaptable to both contemporary and traditional design aesthetics.