Handsewn Loafer

The handsewn loafer exemplifies traditional cobbling techniques rarely seen in modern production. McAteer begins by hand-lasting each shoe over custom hand-whittled lasts he developed specifically for this model. The defining feature is the hand-welted construction, where McAteer carves a "holdfast" around the edges of the sole and laboriously threads every stitch between the upper and outsole using a curved awl. This painstaking process creates a durable connection without any machine assistance.

Each subsequent pair is hand-lasted to McAteer's custom fittings, ensuring consistency while maintaining the handmade character. The construction includes an undyed welt and stamped insole, with all-white tonal stitching throughout providing visual cohesion.

The loafers feature premium imported components carefully selected for their quality and durability. The outsoles are natural latex from Lactae Hevea in France, the same rubber used in high-end footwear. McAteer also utilizes Ridgeway soles imported from England, the same soles employed by storied bespoke cobblers like Edward Green.

Natural vegetable-tanned leather is available as one option for the uppers, allowing the shoes to develop a rich patina over time. The undyed welt complements this natural aesthetic, creating a cohesive look that celebrates the materials' inherent qualities.

While the basic handsewn loafer represents McAteer's core offering, he has expanded the line to include specialized versions. Most notably, when introducing a horsebit loafer variation, McAteer designed the hardware from scratch using his metalwork experience. He carved his own wax molds and partnered with a Manhattan-based foundry to cast the bits in solid bronze, then filed and polished the metal in his own studio.

Acquiring a pair of A.E. McAteer Handsewn Loafers begins with direct communication with the maker. Clients message McAteer expressing their shoe style preference, after which he asks about typical sizing and any fit issues they've experienced with other footwear. For trickier fits, McAteer may request a foot tracing and make adjustments to his lasts accordingly.

Orders are typically fulfilled within 8 weeks, though this timeline reflects the reality of one-person production and the time-intensive hand-welting process. The loafers are sold directly through the official A.E. McAteer website and are stocked by specialty boutiques as far afield as London and Tokyo.

Andrew McAteer operates A.E. McAteer Design as a one-man business from his workshop in Astoria, Queens. A seventh-generation New Yorker, he came to shoemaking from a background in furniture making and antiques restoration, bringing those traditional craft skills to leatherwork when he established the business in 2013. Beyond the handsewn loafer, McAteer can produce around a dozen styles of footwear including fisherman's sandals, desert boots, and casual canvas shoes, all made using the same meticulous hand techniques.