Allen EdmondsHiggins Mill

Higgins Mill

Model

About

The Higgins Mill is a plain-toe boot manufactured by Allen Edmonds, an American footwear company. First introduced in 2016, the boot features weatherproof Horween Chromexcel leather and traditional 360-degree Goodyear welt construction. Built on Allen Edmonds' 1757 last and designed with inspiration from early Maine logging boots, the Higgins Mill has become the company's most popular boot model.

The boot is manufactured in Port Washington, Wisconsin, using a 212-step production process involving 48 pairs of hands. With over 180 five-star reviews, it represents a middle-tier option in the heritage boot market, priced at approximately $445-450. The Higgins Mill is available in multiple leather options and a full range of extended sizes and widths, making it accessible to a broad range of heritage footwear enthusiasts.

Design and specifications

The Higgins Mill features a timeless plain-toe design with a 6-inch shaft. The boot includes five eyelets and three hooks for lacing, built on Allen Edmonds' rounded-toe 1757 footwear last. The design inspiration harks back to early logging years in Maine, with the 1757 last specifically inspired by vintage logging boots.

Construction follows traditional 360-degree Goodyear welt techniques, allowing for recrafting and extended wear life. The sole construction consists of three layers: a Dainite rubber outer sole, cork midsole, and leather insole. A wood shank spans the arch area to provide structural support. Some variations feature lightweight rubber lug soles for enhanced traction.

The upper uses weatherproof Chromexcel leather sourced from the Horween tannery, known for its ability to dry soft and age with character. The interior features soft leather lining with an integrated weatherproof membrane. CustomCorkâ„¢ insoles mold to the wearer's foot shape over time, enhancing comfort and fit.

Manufacturing and heritage

Allen Edmonds has been manufacturing boots in the United States since 1922, when the company was founded by Elbert W. Allen as the Allen-Spiegal Shoe Company in Belgium, Wisconsin. In 1931, Allen partnered with Bill Edmonds to form the Allen Edmonds Corporation, establishing the foundation for modern operations.

All Higgins Mill boots are produced in Port Washington, Wisconsin, using traditional American manufacturing methods. The production process involves 212 individual steps completed by 48 pairs of hands, maintaining the company's commitment to domestic production. The facility represents one of the few remaining American boot manufacturers producing at scale.

The company is currently owned by Caleres, which acquired Allen Edmonds in December 2016 for $255 million. Despite ownership changes, production has remained centered in Wisconsin, preserving the heritage manufacturing approach that defines the brand's identity in the heritage footwear market.

Pricing and market position

The Higgins Mill is positioned at approximately $445-450 per pair through Allen Edmonds' direct sales channels. This pricing places it in the middle tier of heritage boots, notably higher than contemporary brands like Red Wing and Wolverine, but below premium European manufacturers.

Specialized variations command higher prices, with some configurations priced between $539.97 and $675.00. The pricing reflects the American manufacturing origin, traditional construction methods, and premium materials, particularly the Horween Chromexcel leather specification.

In the heritage footwear market, the Higgins Mill competes directly with similar service boots from domestic manufacturers while positioning itself as an accessible entry point into Allen Edmonds' boot collection. The price point reflects both the manufacturing costs of domestic production and the brand's positioning as a heritage American shoemaker.

Customer reception

The Higgins Mill has received significant acclaim from customers, accumulating over 180 five-star reviews and establishing itself as Allen Edmonds' most popular boot model. Industry observers widely recognize it as one of the highest quality US-made service boots available in its price range.

Customers consistently praise the boot's versatility, noting its ability to work equally well with both casual and semi-formal attire. The design has been specifically commended for its simplicity and adaptability across different styling contexts, making it suitable for both jeans and slacks.

However, some customer feedback has identified quality control concerns. Reviews have noted issues including sciving problems, loose threads, and loose grain leather. Some customers have reported durability problems, with boots beginning to show significant wear or sole separation after approximately six months of use. These quality control issues represent ongoing challenges despite the generally positive reception.

Variations

The Higgins Mill collection includes multiple leather and sole options to accommodate different preferences and use cases. Available leather choices include Horween Chromexcel, kudu reverse suede, waterproof leather, waterproof waxed suede, and premium Horween shell cordovan for collectors seeking the highest-grade materials.

Sole options vary across the collection, with the standard version featuring Dainite rubber soles. Alternative configurations include zip boot variations with lug soles for enhanced traction in challenging conditions. The collection also features different closure systems, with traditional lace-up and zip boot configurations available.

Allen Edmonds offers the Higgins Mill in an extensive range of sizes and widths to ensure proper fit across diverse foot shapes. Width options include B (narrow), D (standard), E (wide), and EE (extra wide), while size options span the full Allen Edmonds range. Special collaborations have also featured the Higgins Mill, including a partnership with Barbour in honor of Allen Edmonds' 100th anniversary.

References

  • 1.

    "Higgins Mill Collection". Allen Edmonds. Retrieved 2025-09-19.

  • 2.
  • 3.

    "Allen-Edmonds Shoe Corporation Company History". Company Histories. Retrieved 2025-09-19.

  • 4.

    "Allen-Edmonds Shoe Corporation". Encyclopedia.com. Retrieved 2025-09-19.

  • 5.

    "Allen Edmonds". Caleres. Retrieved 2025-09-19.

  • 6.

    "Allen Edmonds Higgins Mill Reviews". Zappos. Retrieved 2025-09-19.

  • 7.
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