Badalassi Carlo Nemesis

Nemesis leather is produced at the Badalassi Carlo tannery in San Miniato, Tuscany, Italy. The tannery, which has specialized in vegetable-tanned leather for over 50 years, is a member of the exclusive Pelle Vegetale Consortium, certifying strict adherence to traditional vegetable tanning methods. The facility is also part of the Genuine Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium, which emphasizes sustainability and craftsmanship standards in leather production.

As an official member of these consortiums, Badalassi Carlo operates under environmental regulations specific to the Tuscany region, ensuring that their production methods maintain both traditional quality and environmental responsibility.

The tanning process for Nemesis leather follows traditional vegetable tanning methods using natural tannins extracted from tree barks and plant materials. This approach, which dates back hundreds of years, creates an environmentally friendly leather that is biodegradable.

After the initial vegetable tanning, the leather undergoes a light milling process that creates the characteristic grain variations visible on the surface. The leather is then drum-stained with a rustic aniline finish, which penetrates completely through the material rather than remaining only on the surface. Following the dyeing process, the leather is stone-glazed, a polishing technique that adds a subtle sheen to the surface while maintaining the natural, rustic character.

The tanning oils and fats used in the process contribute to the leather's working properties, particularly its ability to be burnished and its patina development over time.

Nemesis is a full-grain cowhide leather with varying small and smooth grain patterns created during the light milling process. The leather measures between 4.5oz (1.8mm) and 5oz (2mm ± 0.2mm) in thickness, providing medium firmness rated at approximately 6 out of 10 on a firmness scale.

The surface exhibits a full aniline finish, meaning the leather retains its natural character with minimal surface treatment to hide imperfections. This results in a rustic, vintage appearance with depth to the color. The stone glazing adds a slight sheen without compromising the matte, natural aesthetic.

The flesh side of the leather is soft and smooth, while the grain side shows the characteristic lightly milled texture with visible grain patterns. The leather is supplied in double shoulder cuts, eliminating the belly portion and providing higher material yield for production.

Nemesis leather develops patina gradually through exposure to light, touch, and environmental conditions. The aniline finish and natural tanning process allow the leather to change color over time, with the most noticeable darkening occurring in areas of frequent wear and handling.

The stone-glazed surface begins to show increased sheen in high-contact areas, while the overall color deepens and gains complexity. This patina development is considered light to moderate compared to other vegetable-tanned leathers, creating subtle rather than dramatic changes in appearance over the first few years of use.

Nemesis leather is valued by craftspeople for its ease of handling and versatility. The leather cuts and skives easily, making it suitable for precision work in small leather goods and footwear construction. Edges can be burnished to a smooth finish, taking advantage of the natural oils and waxes in the vegetable-tanned material.

Despite the light milling process, the leather retains its original firm temper, which contributes to structural integrity in finished products. This medium firmness makes Nemesis versatile enough for both exterior components that require shape retention and interior linings that benefit from a supple hand feel.

The leather accepts tooling and stamping work, though the aniline finish means that any marks or impressions will be visible on the surface. This characteristic makes it suitable for decorative leatherwork where surface treatment is part of the design.

Nemesis leather is used in the production of footwear, including boots and dress shoes, where its medium firmness and grain variation provide visual interest while maintaining structural requirements. In leather goods, it appears in belts, bags, wallets, and cases where the rustic finish and patina development are desired aesthetic qualities.

The leather is also used for watch straps, where its comfort, flexibility, and aging characteristics are valued. Small leather goods manufacturers use Nemesis for products such as cardholders, notebook covers, and tool cases. The material's suitability for both interior and exterior applications makes it versatile for makers producing items with mixed component requirements.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply serves as the official North American distributor for Badalassi Carlo Nemesis, offering the leather in panels, hides, and sample sizes for craftspeople and manufacturers. The leather is also available through various specialty leather suppliers internationally, distributed in standard tannery sizes suitable for both small-scale craft production and commercial manufacturing.