Iron Boot

The Iron Boot is available in black suede and incorporates construction techniques inspired by bespoke shoemaking, including thicker insoles with carved holdfast grooves and full-substance leather bends. The boot uses Italian vegetable-tanned leather for the insole and outsole, sourced from tanneries in Tuscany.

The Iron Boot is built on Bridlen's Nara last, which creates well-defined shoe shape while allowing for less pressure during lasting to maintain the leather's natural feel. The upper is constructed from Repello calf suede by Charles F. Stead, a 1.6-1.8mm thick suede treated with Scotchgard during tanning for water and stain resistance.

Construction uses 360-degree channeled Goodyear welting, with the welt stitched directly to a 5mm channeled vegetable-tanned leather insole. The insole and outsole leathers are made in Tuscany, Italy using traditional slow chestnut pit tanning methods. The outsole is a Dainite lugged rubber sole. Interior lining uses drum-dyed crust leather.

The boot incorporates full-substance 5-6mm leather bends as used in bespoke shoemaking. The seat area fits snug to the heel with a leather board counter for breathability and comfort. Heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down for a robust yet clean finish. The thicker insole construction provides increased comfort and contributes to a shorter break-in period compared to standard gemmed construction.

Bridlen employs distinctive construction methods that differ from standard factory shoe production. The boots use thicker insoles with carved holdfast grooves instead of standard gemming with canvas ribs. This allows the welt stitch to attach directly to the insole similar to traditional hand-welted construction.

The company uses a "3D upper making" technique that pre-shapes upper components on lasts before sewing, eliminating the need for fabric backings. This process uses smaller leather pieces comparable to methods used in bespoke shoemaking. The approach results in shoes stitched to a leather channel on the insole, unlike most factory shoes which use a gemmed cotton rib.

The Iron Boot uses Repello calf suede from Charles F. Stead, a tannery based at Sheepscar Tannery in Leeds, England. The tannery specializes in fine English suede leathers and maintains traditional artisanal suede production methods.

Repello suede is a tight-napped suede with a weight of 1.6-1.8mm (3.5-4.5 ounces). The leather receives Scotchgard treatment during the tanning process, providing water and stain resistance that remains effective throughout the life of the footwear. The calfskin used for Repello comes from younger animals aged four to six months, sourced from European tanneries in France and Germany, which produces a finer and more supple fiber structure.