Monkey Boot

Bridlen applies traditional construction techniques to the monkey boot silhouette, including a flexible 5-6mm channeled vegetable tanned leather insole and a direct welt stitch method that differs from standard factory production using cotton rib gemming. The boot's construction involves over 170 processes and incorporates European-sourced leathers from tanneries including Charles F. Stead and Mastrotto.

The Monkey Boot employs 360-degree channeled Goodyear welt construction, a method where the welt is stitched directly to a leather channel carved in the insole rather than to cotton rib gemming used in standard factory shoes. The thicker insole adds stability and support while reducing the break-in period. A cork paste layer between the insole and outsole provides cushioning and molds to the foot's shape over time.

The construction process uses full substance 5-6mm leather bends for the insole, matching techniques used in bespoke shoemaking. This approach creates a more compact shoe with a direct welt stitch, allowing the welt to sit flatter on the shoe and creating a sharper feather edge. The boot features semi-lined construction, which allows for greater breathability while maintaining structural integrity.

The lace-to-toe design is characteristic of monkey boots, typically featuring an ankle-height silhouette with a chunky, robust sole. This design combines elements of high-top trainers, work boots, hiking boots, and desert boots, creating a distinctive aesthetic that has remained consistent since the style's origins in Czechoslovakia.

The Monkey Boot uses Kudu Reverse Suede for the upper leather in the Thunder Cloud variant. Upper leathers are sourced from European tanneries, continuing Bridlen's practice of using premium materials from established suppliers.

The insole and outsole leathers are produced in Tuscany, Italy using a traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method. The outsole combines vegetable tanned leather with injected rubber (Dura Sole), providing durability and traction while maintaining the aesthetic of leather construction. Bridlen sources a special oil-tanned bend leather from Italy that must bend easily while remaining durable, balancing flexibility with structural integrity.

Monkey boots originated in Czechoslovakia during World War II, emerging from Eastern Bloc manufacturing traditions as military footwear. The boots were characterized as leather lace-to-toe ankle boots with chunky, robust soles featuring a distinctive tractor tire pattern with teeth-like edge design. Many featured bright yellow or contrasting M-shaped stitching across the heel and middle, typically in oxblood red or black leather.

During the 1960s, the style transitioned from military utility to civilian fashion as they became available to the general public. Initial popularity emerged among women and children due to their affordability before becoming a staple among British youth subcultures. The boots gained significant popularity in London's East End among mods and skinheads, with music icons including Pete Townshend and Paul Weller wearing the style.

Czech manufacturers including Svit, Cebo, Zuch, and Marlone produced the boots, with Grafters becoming the most iconic brand. Grafters boots have been continuously manufactured in the same Czech factory since 1969, maintaining the original design specifications. By the late 1960s, British shoemakers began producing their own versions following the original Eastern European designs. The boots continued in use through the 1970s as school uniforms and police footwear, maintaining their appeal based on toughness, affordability, and visual distinction.

Bridlen's interpretation represents a contemporary application of traditional Goodyear welt construction techniques to this historically significant boot design, combining the classic monkey boot silhouette with premium materials and refined manufacturing processes.