Plain Derby

Bridlen offers the Plain Derby across three distinct product lines. The Main Line, priced at €240 or $265, uses 14-16 stitches per inch and represents the company's core offering. The Founders Line, positioned at €290 or $315, features enhanced construction with 20-22 stitches per inch and premium materials including J. Rendenbach or J&FJ Baker oak bark tanned soles. The Blake Line offers a more accessible entry point at $92.

All Plain Derby configurations are produced made-to-order with a three-week delivery time. The company provides free international shipping on orders exceeding $200.

The Plain Derby employs 360-degree Goodyear welted construction, a method where the welt is stitched directly to thick insoles without standard gemming. The construction process combines hand-welting with machine welting only at the toe area to maintain consistent strength throughout the shoe.

The model utilizes a 360 channeling stitching technique that creates what the company describes as a suspension bridge effect. Closed-channel stitching hides the stitches under a leather flap, providing clean finishing alongside fudged welts. The shoes feature 3D upper making, where leather backings replace canvas and upper components are attached on the last rather than a flat surface. A carved insole channel, known as the Holdfast, connects the welt to both the insole and uppers.

Structural reinforcement comes from leather board heel stiffeners and celastic toe stiffeners integrated into the construction.

Upper leathers for the Plain Derby are sourced from established European tanneries including Annonay, Charles F. Stead, and Mastrotto. The Main Line uses Annonay Vegano Box Calf, a full grain calfskin. Premium configurations are available in Shell Cordovan from Shinki Hikaku, offered in a Bordo colorway.

Standard color options include Burgundy, Black, and Brown in full grain box calf leather. All configurations feature drum-dyed crust leather lining and 5mm channeled vegetable tanned leather insoles from Tuscany. The Founders Line specifications include leather closed channel soles and Triumph toe plates.

The Plain Derby is available in sizes ranging from UK3 to UK15 in half sizes, with width options extending to EEE. The model is offered on three different lasts, each providing distinct aesthetic profiles.

The Rui last features a rounded toe with a slightly banana-shaped profile. The Char Last provides a comfortably rounded toe configuration. The Mod last offers an additional styling option, though specific shape characteristics are not documented in available sources.

The Deus last, described as a soft square last with a wider EE body, and the Zed last, characterized as almond-shaped, are mentioned in connection with Bridlen's overall product range.

Plain Derby shoes are sold direct-to-consumer through the company's website. Each order includes extra laces, a shoe horn, and tartan storage bags. The company accepts exchanges but does not offer refunds on purchases.