The Hawk

The Hawk

Model

About

The Hawk is a boondocker-style boot manufactured by Briselblack, an Indonesian bootmaker based in Bandung. The Hawk represents the company's interpretation of the classic military boondocker design, featuring traditional handwelted construction and premium materials sourced from international suppliers.

The boot is built on Briselblack's Ben-01 last and exemplifies the handcrafted Indonesian bootmaking tradition that traces its origins to Dutch colonial influence in the 19th century. As part of Briselblack's made-to-order production system, The Hawk allows for customization of materials while maintaining the company's focus on heritage construction methods.

Design and construction

The Hawk features a flatwelt 270-degree construction method, combining traditional handlasting with hand-welted assembly. The boot utilizes a Ben-01 last, which is specifically designed for the boondocker silhouette and provides the foundation for the boot's shape and fit.

Construction details include an unstructured toebox design and regular heels without leather stack reinforcement. The welt, edge, and stitching are coordinated in black, creating a cohesive aesthetic that emphasizes the boot's military heritage. Hardware consists of antique brass eyelets that complement the overall design while providing durability for daily wear.

The boot omits a midsole in favor of direct outsole attachment, a design choice that affects both the boot's profile and break-in characteristics. Dr Sole Black Cord serves as the outsole material, providing traction and durability for various surface conditions.

Materials and specifications

The Hawk primarily uses Italian thick horsebutt leather from Maryam Tannery, specifically offered in an overdyed black finish. This leather selection represents Briselblack's broader material sourcing strategy, which includes both local Indonesian leather and imported materials from established international suppliers.

The boot features tan half-lining, providing structure and comfort while allowing the upper to develop natural patina characteristics over time. Material thickness specifications align with Briselblack's standard range of 2.5-2.8mm, reflecting the company's emphasis on substantial leather construction.

Pricing for The Hawk is approximately $545 USD, positioned within Briselblack's imported leather category. Lead times typically extend to five months, reflecting the made-to-order production model and the handcrafted construction process employed by the company's seven-craftsman workshop.

Heritage and brand context

The Hawk is produced by Briselblack, a company that evolved from the previous brand Benzein in 2023. The bootmaker operates from Bandung, Indonesia, a city that serves as the center of the country's footwear industry and represents the continuation of traditional shoemaking techniques introduced during Dutch colonial rule.

Briselblack's founder Adi Hermawan comes from a family with involvement in the Indonesian shoe business since 1986, representing generational knowledge of local manufacturing traditions. The company specializes in hand-lasted and hand-welted construction methods, preserving techniques that date to 19th-century European shoemaking practices.

The workshop employs seven craftsmen who maintain traditional construction methods including flat welt and veldtschoen techniques. This approach reflects the broader Indonesian bootmaking movement that has gained international recognition for combining heritage techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

Production capacity remains limited to 2-3 pairs per week due to the time investment required for hand construction methods. This limitation reinforces the company's position within the made-to-order market segment, where individual customization takes precedence over volume production.

References

  • 1.

    THE HAWK - THICK HORSEBUTT OVERDYED BLACK (PRE-ORDER). Briselblack Bootmakers. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 2.

    About Us. Briselblack Bootmakers. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 3.

    SAGARA : Indonesian Master Bootmaker Since 2010. Sagara Bootmaker. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

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