Carlos Santos

Zarco-Fábrica de Calçado began production in São João da Madeira in 1942, initially serving the local Portuguese market. Prior to 1975, the factory exported footwear to England under customer brand names. Following the fall of the Estado Novo government in 1975, Zarco expanded its exports across Europe and into additional international markets.

During the 1970s and 1980s, Carlos Santos traveled internationally to study shoe production techniques and innovation. He would attend fashion shows, purchase shoes from other manufacturers, and deconstruct them to analyze their construction methods rather than wear them. This research informed his approach to shoemaking and quality standards. In 2010, after decades in the footwear industry, he established the Carlos Santos brand to market shoes under his own name.

Production takes place at the Zarco-Fábrica de Calçado facility in São João da Madeira, a town near Porto in northern Portugal known for traditional footwear manufacturing. Each pair of shoes undergoes over 200 production techniques, with the process being 100% handcrafted. While machines are used, they serve a complementary role to manual craftsmanship. For the premium Santos line, 80% of the work is completed manually without machinery.

All shoes utilize Goodyear welt construction, a method where the upper and welt are sewn to the insole before the outsole is attached to the welt through stitching. This creates a resoleable shoe structure. The company is one of few Portuguese manufacturers employing this traditional construction technique, which requires skilled artisans and remains labor-intensive despite modern production capabilities.

The brand developed a variation called Goodyear Welted Flex through years of research and experimentation. This construction method maintains the durability and quality of traditional Goodyear welting while reducing the break-in period for new shoes, addressing a common concern with welted footwear.

The product line focuses on men's dress shoes across several categories. Oxfords represent the most formal option, while Derbies offer versatility as comfortable and stylish everyday shoes. Monk straps provide a distinctive alternative to laced shoes. The range also includes loafers and moccasins positioned for casual wear and summer seasons, along with various boot styles emphasized in fall and winter collections. The brand offers sneakers for casual applications.

Products are organized into a Standard Range priced under $300 and a Premium Handgrade Range under $400. Seasonal collections for spring-summer and fall-winter introduce new styles and colorways annually. Additional services include custom patina finishing and group made-to-order programs.

The company exports approximately 90% of its production, with distribution in Europe, the Middle East, and the United States.