The Plain Toe Derby 1525 is a four-eyelet blucher derby manufactured by Carmina Shoemaker on their Oscaria last. The model features Goodyear welt and storm welt construction with hand-cut leather uppers and full calf lining, representing Carmina's sportier aesthetic within their dress shoe range. Retail pricing is $630 USD, with the shoe available in Black Antique leather and other material options.
The 1525 exemplifies Carmina's traditional construction methods, with each pair manufactured by expert craftsmen in Inca, Mallorca following techniques established when Charles Goodyear created the welting method in 1869. The Oscaria last provides a wider fitting with additional front area space, making it particularly well-suited for plain toe blucher designs.
The model employs both Goodyear welt and storm welt construction methods. In Goodyear welting, the upper, lining, and welt are sewn to the insole before the outsole is attached to the welt through stitching. The storm welt variant adds enhanced water protection through its raised welt profile.
The uppers are hand-cut from leather stock, with full calfskin lining extending throughout the interior. The Varik, Antique, Rois, and Horse calf leather options feature a synthetic coating that creates a waxy and shiny surface texture. Carmina manufactures the leather soles internally using premium leather stock. The construction allows for resoling by a competent cobbler, with replaceable rubber sole options available for customers preferring rubber over leather soles.
The Oscaria last is characterized as Carmina's sportier last option, featuring a wide fitting with a rounded toe area and tall, rounded tip design. The last runs slightly shorter in overall length compared to other Carmina lasts while providing additional space in the front area, making it particularly suitable for plain toe blucher styles. The 1525 carries an EE width classification as standard.
Carmina typically pairs the Oscaria last with robust rubber soles including the Alfil, Silver, and Tramuntana options, reinforcing its positioning as a more casual, sport-oriented last within the product range. The wide fitting and rounded toe shape accommodate feet requiring more room in the toe box while maintaining a masculine silhouette appropriate for plain toe derbies.
The leather construction requires a break-in period during which the material molds to the wearer's foot shape. Proper fit depends heavily on selecting the correct last for individual foot shape. For customers finding the Oscaria last unsuitable for their feet, Carmina offers the 1525 on their Detroit last as an alternative option, providing a different fit profile while maintaining the same plain toe derby design.
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