C.F. Stead Rough Mohawk

The leather falls within C.F. Stead's Fashion Suedes and Flesh-out leathers category. The finish features the natural textures and break characteristics of the flesh-side of the hide, with a tight fiber structure that produces an authentic, rugged appearance. The highly exaggerated and irregular nap means significant variation between individual skins, with no two pieces appearing identical.

Rough Mohawk skins average 12 to 15 square feet in size with a thickness ranging from 1.4 to 2.4mm. The leather features a nappy finish that creates a rough and natural texture across the surface. The tight fiber structure contributes to the leather's authentic character while maintaining structural integrity for footwear applications.

The surface texture exhibits a wide range of nappiness, with the highly irregular nature creating distinct visual and tactile variation. This natural variation stems from the leather's processing method, which preserves and emphasizes the natural characteristics of the flesh side of the hide rather than creating a uniform appearance.

Rough Mohawk is classified as a flesh-out suede, where the grain side of the leather faces inward and the flesh side is exposed and finished. This construction is similar to full reverse suede, which uses more of the hide's original structure including the grain area. The back side of roughout leather resembles untreated smooth full grain leather, while the exposed flesh side receives treatment to create the characteristic nap.

In flesh-out construction, part of the corium layer is left more rough and untreated compared to traditional suede. The surface is sanded or buffed to create a nap, but the processing emphasizes preserving the natural rough texture rather than achieving a smooth, uniform surface. Full reverse suede construction means the leather stretches similarly to full grain leather while presenting the flesh side as the visible surface.

Charles F. Stead produces several variants within the Mohawk leather line. Smooth Waxy Mohawk features wax impregnation to enhance the natural textures of the leather. This variant measures 12 to 14 square feet with a thickness of 1.2 to 2.2mm. The Smooth Waxy Mohawk is finished with a natural blend of waxes and is described as a comfortable and chunky casual leather.

Waxy Mohawk is available in three colors: Stone, Coach, and Teak. The leather weighs 4.5 to 5.5 ounces, equivalent to 1.8 to 2.2mm in thickness. Like Rough Mohawk, the waxed variants feature the natural textures and break of the flesh-side of the hide, with the added wax treatment providing enhanced water resistance and a different surface character.

Rough Mohawk leather can be maintained using standard boot wax or cream products. The recommended care process involves spot cleaning the leather, brushing the surface to remove debris and restore the nap, then applying either waterproofing spray or wax and balm treatments. This care regimen helps maintain the leather's protective qualities and appearance while preserving the distinctive texture.

The flesh-out construction and natural texture of Rough Mohawk makes regular brushing particularly important for maintaining the nap's appearance. The tight fiber structure responds well to conditioning products, which help keep the leather supple while maintaining its structural integrity.

Several footwear manufacturers incorporate Rough Mohawk leather in their products. Wolverine uses roughout leather made by Charles F. Stead of England in their 1000 Mile boots, which are handcrafted in Big Rapids, Michigan using US and globally sourced materials. The leather's characteristics make it suitable for year-round wear, with its dark color palette and heavy textures providing versatility.

Viberg produces slippers in Smoke Rough Mohawk, an exclusive colorway developed specifically for the brand. Grant Stone offers boots in Bronze Rough Mohawk, another exclusive colorway created for Grant Stone and tanned in England. The brand's Brass Boot and Garrison Boot models feature this bronze variant with its characteristic nappy finish and irregular texture.

The leather's rugged outdoor appearance and texture have made it a choice for all-weather boot applications. The natural variation in the nap creates a distinctive aesthetic that manufacturers describe as both statement-making and versatile for different wearing contexts.