C.F. Stead Waxed Roughout

The tannery produces several waxed roughout variations under different product names, including Desert Oasis Waxed, Smooth Waxy Mohawk, and Rough Out Waxed, each offering different nap lengths, textures, and specifications suited to specific footwear constructions. These leathers feature tight fiber structures created through specialized tanning processes and are used by bootmakers including Viberg and Tricker's for all-weather boots requiring durability and water resistance.

C.F. Stead waxed roughout leathers are manufactured using the flesh side of the hide rather than the grain side, with the natural textures and break of the leather's underside highlighted through the tanning process. The wax impregnation enhances these natural textures while creating a water-resistant finish. The tight fiber structure offers an authentic, rugged leather with natural character, finished with natural blends of waxes applied during the tanning process.

The manufacturing process involves treating hides with wax that can be readily burnished, with the movement of suede fibers under the wax providing depth of texture and color. This creates leather described as comfortable and chunky casual leather, with the wax creating a scratch-sensitive finish that develops a distressed patina over time through normal wear.

C.F. Stead produces multiple waxed roughout leathers with different specifications and characteristics. Desert Oasis Waxed is a casual, long-napped suede with surface wax application, featuring average skin sizes of 12 to 15 square feet and thickness of 1.4 to 2.2 millimeters. This leather is intended mainly for unlined casual footwear with raw material specially selected and tanned to achieve a relaxed, sporty look with a rugged nap.

Smooth Waxy Mohawk features natural textures of the hide's flesh side finished with a natural blend of waxes, with specifications of 12 to 14 square feet per skin and thickness of 1.2 to 2.2 millimeters. Waxy Mohawk, offered as a flesh-out suede, highlights natural vein marks on the reverse side of the skin with wax impregnation to enhance natural textures, weighing 4.5 to 5.5 ounces with thickness of 1.8 to 2.2 millimeters and size of 12 to 14 square feet.

The Rough Out Waxed product line offers traditional heavy-weight hunting suede or reverse suede with characteristic rough, casual texture and natural full grain on the reverse side, provided oiled or waxed and available in fully waterproof specification. Anthracite Waxed Roughout, a gray colorway used by Viberg for Service Boot construction, features the leather in stitchdown construction with Dainite sole.

Waxed roughout leather from C.F. Stead can be brushed and re-waxed to restore the original appearance after heavy wear. The wax creates a scratch-sensitive finish and it is common for the leather to develop a distressed patina over time, which is a desired effect among heritage footwear enthusiasts. Scratches can be disguised with a firm rub with a cloth.

The leather is suitable for all-weather boots with rugged, outdoor appearance. As the wax is rubbed off friction points and the natural nap of the leather returns, the leather gains patina characteristics distinct from ordinary leather, with the waxed suede responding to brushing and re-waxing treatments to maintain or restore the original finish.

C.F. Stead waxed roughout leathers are used in heritage footwear applications requiring water resistance and durability. Viberg uses C.F. Stead Anthracite Waxed Roughout leather in their Service Boot design, which dates to 1931 and features seven eyelet ankle boot construction with stitchdown method and Dainite sole. The boots are built on the 1035 last, which is a classic round toe last.

Tricker's uses waxed roughout leathers from C.F. Stead in Chelsea boots and other styles, with the waxed roughout suede creating a more casual aesthetic while protecting the leather from the elements. The leathers are suitable for Goodyear-welted shoes, Western boots, and accessories, emphasizing durability and traditional manufacturing methods characteristic of heritage footwear construction.