C.F. Stead Waxy Mohawk is a flesh-out suede leather produced by English tannery Charles F. Stead since the early 2000s. Tanned to highlight natural vein marks on the reverse side of the hide and finished with a natural blend of waxes, the leather features a distinctive rugged appearance valued in heritage boot construction.[1][2] The material represents Charles F. Stead's continued specialization in suede and specialty leathers, combining traditional flesh-out tanning with modern waterproofing treatments.[2]
The leather gained recognition among heritage bootmakers for its balance of durability and character, with applications ranging from work boots to casual footwear. Its tight fiber structure and wax treatment create an authentic outdoor aesthetic that develops natural patina through wear.[2] Heritage bootmakers including Wolverine, Oak Street Bootmakers, and Parkhurst Brand have incorporated the leather into their product lines.[3][4]
Waxy Mohawk belongs to the category of flesh-out leathers, in which the reverse side of the hide forms the exterior surface. The tanning process emphasizes the natural textures and break of the flesh-side, creating visible vein marks characteristic of the hide's structure.[1][2] A natural wax impregnation penetrates the leather fibers, enhancing the material's natural textures while providing water resistance.[1][2]
The leather's tight fiber structure contributes to its rugged character and durability.[2] Unlike smooth grain leathers, the flesh-out construction exposes the hide's natural imperfections, with variations in color and texture from hide to hide.[4] The wax formulation differs from other Charles F. Stead products, tailored specifically for the Mohawk line's balance of texture and protection.[1]
The material develops patina through use, with the waxed surface showing wear patterns that reflect individual use. The combination of wax treatment and flesh-out construction creates a leather that ages visibly, building character over time.[2]
Waxy Mohawk is produced in weights ranging from 4.5 to 5.5 ounces (1.8 to 2.2 millimeters) thick.[1] Individual hides average 12 to 14 square feet in size, with thickness ranging from 1.2 to 2.2 millimeters depending on the portion of the hide.[1][2] The material is offered in multiple colors including Stone, Coach, Teak, Winter Smoke, and Moss.[1]
Charles F. Stead produces the leather with an optional waterproof tannage, making it suitable for outdoor and all-weather applications.[1] This waterproof version maintains the leather's distinctive appearance while providing enhanced moisture protection. The flesh-out construction, combined with wax treatment, contributes to the material's outdoor performance characteristics.[1]
A related variant, Rough Mohawk, features slightly different specifications with average hide sizes of 12 to 15 square feet and thickness ranging from 1.4 to 2.4 millimeters.[5] The Rough Mohawk emphasizes a more pronounced rugged texture compared to the Smooth Waxy Mohawk variant.[5]
Wolverine incorporated the leather into their 1000 Mile Plain-Toe Original boot, featuring a roughout leather upper produced by Charles F. Stead of England.[3] The boot's construction includes an unlined design that showcases the leather's natural character, with production in Big Rapids, Michigan, USA.[3]
Oak Street Bootmakers utilizes the material's tight fiber structure in their heritage boot designs, valuing the leather's authentic appearance and durability.[2] Parkhurst Brand offered Waxy Mohawk in their Richmond boot model, demonstrating the leather's adoption among American heritage bootmakers.[4]
The material's rugged outdoor appearance makes it appropriate for work boots and casual footwear designed for all-weather use. Its flesh-out construction provides a casual aesthetic distinct from smooth grain leathers, while the wax treatment offers practical weather protection.[1][2]
The waxed leather requires maintenance appropriate to its finish. Regular care involves spot cleaning with a damp cloth, brushing to maintain the nap, and periodic application of boot wax or cream.[4] Waterproofing spray or wax-based products help preserve the leather's water-resistant properties.[4]
For waxed leathers, care should employ a gentle approach using a soft cloth and mild soap mixed with lukewarm water.[4] Protection of the finish requires carnauba wax-based leather creams applied once or twice per year, while silicone-based sprays should be avoided as they may degrade the leather over time.[4]
Direct sunlight exposure should be limited to prevent fading, particularly on dyed leather.[4] The leather's natural variations in color and texture mean that each piece ages differently, with wear patterns developing according to individual use.[4]
"C.F. Stead Waxy Mohawk Leather". The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 30, 2025.
"Smooth Waxy Mohawk". Charles F Stead and Co Ltd. Retrieved September 30, 2025.
"Rough Out - 1000 Mile Plain-Toe Original Boot". Wolverine Footwear. Retrieved September 30, 2025.
"Leather and Care". Parkhurst Brand LLC. Retrieved September 30, 2025.
"Rough Mohawk". Charles F Stead and Co Ltd. Retrieved September 30, 2025.