The Graham Boots is a six-inch cap-toe lace-up boot manufactured by Clinch, a Japanese bootmaker based in Tokyo. Part of Clinch's heritage workwear collection, the Graham Boots exemplifies traditional hand-welted construction using embossed French Kip leather and built on the company's MR-Wide last for a sculpted, angular fit.
The boot represents Clinch's commitment to pre-war inspired bootmaking techniques, with all construction performed entirely by hand in the company's Tokyo workshop. Limited to small-scale production of 800-1,000 pairs annually across all models, the Graham Boots reflects the brand's focus on artisanal craftsmanship over mass production.
The Graham Boots features hand-sewn welted construction throughout, following traditional methods that require over 40 hours per pair by skilled craftsmen. The upper is crafted from embossed French Kip leather, sourced from young cows aged one to two years old, which provides a tighter grain structure compared to mature cowhide. This premium leather offers superior flexibility and durability while maintaining excellent dye absorption properties for rich, vibrant coloring.
Construction employs hand-carved wooden lasts following pre-war manufacturing methods, with all boots being hand-cut, sewn, soaked, lasted, nailed, sanded and trimmed in Clinch's Tokyo workshop. The hand-welted process involves manually stitching a leather welt to the upper via the leather insole, followed by cork filling in the cavity post-welting for comfort and foot molding. This traditional construction allows for multiple re-soling throughout the boot's lifespan.
The sole features leather construction with O'Sullivan's heel in black, completing the heritage-inspired aesthetic while providing durability for regular wear.
Built on Clinch's MR-Wide last, the Graham Boots offers a sculpted, angular fit characteristic of pre-war dress boots while maintaining a masculine workboot appearance. The six-inch cap-toe lace-up design follows archetypal American work boot styling, executed with Japanese precision and attention to detail.
The MR-Wide last creates a very sculpted fit, particularly narrow in the ball area and just behind, requiring careful sizing consideration for those with wider or thicker feet. The embossed French Kip leather is notably firm and requires extended break-in time, though this contributes to the boot's long-term durability and shape retention.
Available in black colorway, the Graham Boots maintains classic workwear aesthetics while incorporating subtle design refinements that distinguish it from typical work boots. The angular last shape and premium materials create a boot suitable for both heritage workwear styling and more refined casual wear.
The Graham Boots represents Clinch's dedication to preserving traditional bootmaking techniques from the early 20th century. Founded by Minoru Matsuura, who established BRASS Tokyo as a repair shop in 2007 before launching the Clinch brand in 2012, the company emphasizes authentic craftsmanship methods developed through extensive study of vintage footwear restoration.
Construction follows the Japanese definition of 90% handmade, with boots being hand-lasted and welted by hand in most cases before final stitching using sole stitching machines. This approach prioritizes artisanal quality over production efficiency, resulting in boots that exemplify traditional heritage craftsmanship.
The company's small team of 10-11 craftspeople maintains strict attention to detail, with each pair receiving individual attention throughout the construction process. This dedication to handcrafted methods ensures that each Graham Boot meets the highest standards of traditional bootmaking while incorporating modern quality control.
The Graham Boots is distributed primarily through BRASS Tokyo's flagship store in Tokyo's Setagaya district, with limited international availability through authorized retailers including Standard & Strange and East West Apparel. Due to the small production scale and handmade construction methods, availability remains limited with the model currently listed as sold out on the official BRASS Tokyo website.
International distribution accounts for approximately 70% of Clinch's sales, with 50% of exports going to the United States market. The limited production volume and high demand typically result in waiting periods for new orders, reflecting the boot's position within the premium heritage footwear market.
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