Lace Up Boots

The most notable lace-up model is the Graham, described as "an archetypal six-inch cap-toe lace-up work boot executed at a level that precious few bootmakers can rival." Clinch produces between 800 and 1,000 pairs of boots annually using hand-lasted techniques and hand-sewn welting processes, positioning their lace-up boots in the premium heritage footwear market with prices ranging from $1,350 to $2,450 depending on materials and specifications.

Clinch originated from Brass Tokyo, a shoe repair shop opened by Minoru Matsuura in 2007 in Tokyo's Setagaya neighborhood. The shop was established with the intention of restoring even the oldest and most distressed Goodyear welted shoes and boots. After five years of mastering repair techniques, Matsuura launched the Clinch brand in 2012 as a standalone boot brand, focusing on classic workwear boots rooted in vintage design.

The brand name "Clinch" derives from the bootmaking process itself—when constructing a boot, nails are driven through materials and hit a steel plate mounted on the bottom of the shoe last, making the nails curl and form a hook that locks them in place. This technical process reflects the brand's commitment to traditional construction methods that have remained largely unchanged since the early 20th century.

Located at 5-8-12 Daita in Tokyo's Setagaya neighborhood, the small operation employs 10 to 11 people, with a portion assigned to office tasks while others focus on production and repairs. The limited production scale ensures attention to detail and quality control that defines the brand's reputation among heritage footwear enthusiasts.

Clinch lace-up boots employ hand-lasted techniques with most pairs welted by hand and completed with a sole stitching machine. Every step of the hand-sewn welting process is performed by hand except for sewing on the outsoles, which is done by machine for precision and durability. This approach makes the boots approximately 90% handmade according to established Japanese definitions.

The construction process begins with hand-cutting materials and continues through soaking, sewing, lasting, hammering, and finishing—all performed by Matsuura and his team in their basement factory. The boots feature high-quality stitching described as "neat, dense, and even across the entire boot," representing high construction standards in contemporary bootmaking.

Production is organized across several locations within the facility: the main site handles bottom making and finishing, upper assembly occurs on the top floors, and nearby spaces are used for cutting and preparation. This methodical approach allows for careful quality control at each stage of construction while maintaining the artisanal character that distinguishes Clinch from mass-produced alternatives.

The Graham model specifically features French Embossed black leather construction on the MR last with a soft toe design, incorporating O'Sullivan heel components in green, leather sole with topy, and steel plate reinforcement for durability and proper nail clinching during construction.

Clinch sources premium materials from established tanneries across Europe and Japan, with particular emphasis on horsebutt leather hand-selected by Minoru Matsuura himself. The selection process is notably rigorous—less than 50% of available horsebutt stock meets Clinch's quality requirements for density and grain characteristics.

The material palette includes European horsebutt leather, French calfskin, Italian horsebutt, and Japanese veg-tanned cowhide. Natural horsebutt leather is offered in an undyed, raw state featuring natural variations in grain, texture, color, scars, and bite marks that contribute to each boot's unique character. These natural variations are considered desirable characteristics rather than flaws, reflecting the brand's commitment to authentic materials.

Hardware components are carefully sourced with brass hardware, welts, and nails all originating from Japan. Insole and midsole leathers come from top international tanneries, while outsoles are custom-made specifically for Clinch specifications. The O'Sullivan heel and sole components used in lace-up models reference historical designs, including reproduction O'Sullivan heel blocks originally patented in 1899.

All materials undergo extensive quality control before use in production, with materials that fail to meet standards rejected regardless of cost. This uncompromising approach to material selection contributes significantly to the final product's durability and aging characteristics that heritage footwear enthusiasts value.

Clinch lace-up boots are available on multiple last options designed to accommodate different foot shapes and preferences. The MR Last is primarily used for Graham boots, while the CN Last has been modified by Minoru to be more accommodating in terms of instep width and volume for American feet. The CN Wide Last is specifically designed to be more suited to Western feet than the standard last.

General sizing recommendations suggest taking one size smaller than your Brannock measurement, though CN Wide models specifically recommend choosing 0.5 size smaller than your Brannock size. The lasts are characterized as starting narrow with tight fits and extensive contours, similar to early 20th-century last designs that prioritize precise foot conformation over immediate comfort.

The Classic Narrow last is particularly narrow as the name implies, requiring sizing up a full size from your Brannock measurement for proper fit. This last is most suitable for individuals with D width feet or narrower, reflecting traditional Japanese attention to precise fit rather than accommodating broader foot shapes.

Sizing availability typically ranges from US sizes 6.5 through 13 across different models, though specific size availability may vary based on last type and production schedules. The brand emphasizes proper fitting consultation, particularly for customers visiting their Tokyo location, where Matsuura can provide personalized fitting advice based on individual foot characteristics.

Clinch lace-up boots are positioned in the premium heritage footwear market with prices ranging from $1,350 to $2,450 depending on model specifications and materials used. The Graham model with French Embossed black leather represents the entry point for lace-up options, while boots featuring premium horsebutt leather command higher prices reflecting material costs and selection requirements.

Pricing variations reflect material quality and construction complexity. Standard calf leather models start at the lower end of the range, while premium horsebutt leather models with special treatments or limited availability materials reach the upper price range. The significant price differential between standard and premium materials—often $400 or more—reflects both material costs and the additional hand-selection process required for premium hides.

Availability is limited by the brand's annual production capacity of 800 to 1,000 pairs across all models. This constraint means certain popular combinations of last, size, and material may have extended lead times or limited availability. The brand's focus on quality over quantity ensures each pair receives proper attention but limits overall market availability.

Distribution occurs primarily through select authorized retailers worldwide, including Standard & Strange, Clutch Cafe, Recall Clothing, and DC4 in Europe. The official Brass Tokyo online shop serves as the primary source for current model availability and pricing, though visiting the Tokyo location provides access to the full range of customization options and personal fitting services.