By CopperyFoil • April 5, 2024"These are hand welted with JR welt, insole/outsole/counter from Keystone Leather, first time using cork filler from Renia, single ply Ramie thread (5 ply for welt, 4 ply for outsole), homemade wax for welting/insole thread, cream cow lining for the vamp, hardware from Ohio Travel Bag and Danite heel cap.
I'm a pretty slow worker, but these were my quickest pair, clocking in at 1.5 months. I'm a hobbyist bootmaker so I work on these in the evening after work. Previously I have struggled with customizing the last to my measurements, but the fit turned out decently on these. There's still a couple tweaks I'd make on the insole to improve comfort and I might've been overly cautious with some of the measurements, but I'm generally satisfied.
The only machine I used (for now, I'd like a 5-in-1 and a bell skiver) was my Cobra 5110 Post-Bed. Recently, I replaced the motor for a quieter one and I've been getting a lot faster and more precise with my stitching. I tried closing the upper like they do in factory work (holding the piece in place without glue and going fast) and it did NOT go well. Fortunately I was able to salvage the upper and unless you look really hard, you'd be none the wiser!
The edges are dyed and waxed dark brown, my first time doing anything other than a natural edge. The wax/edge iron combination turned out really well, they're very smooth and compact. Maybe one day I'll put a rubber sole on these, but a leather sole is way nicer to stitch and they look classy. Granted, I'm notorious for wearing through the toe, so maybe I'll put some taps on.
The toe is unstructured, which is another first for me. I love how the toe box collapsed, but it was also nice because it preserved the original shape of the toe from the last. I have mixed success with the toe shape when I use a toe puff. The upper and the lining are glued together with Barge TF.
This pair of boots started stiff but turned into a second skin. Because I was careful about not compressing the insole with hammering while it was on the last, it took the shape of my sole very readily.
These boots mean a lot to me because I made and wore them for my wedding. I'm excited to make another pair with the things I learned from this one...."Read the full review
