Gunnerside

The Gunnerside models showcase Norwegian welt construction, a traditional technique that creates highly durable and water-resistant footwear through double-stitching that connects the upper to both the insole and outsole. The company partnered with British last-maker Michael James to create an exact replica of the last from Rønneberg's original boots, which are preserved at Ålesund Museum. Both models feature materials sourced entirely from Europe, including vegetable-tanned leather from Badalassi Carlo tannery in Tuscany, Italy for the GS42, and full grain leather from German tanneries for the GS22.

The Gunnerside name references Operation Gunnerside, executed in February 1943 to sabotage heavy water production facilities at Vemork in Rjukan, Norway. Norwegian SOE agent Joachim Rønneberg (1919-2018) led the mission, which successfully disrupted German nuclear research efforts during World War II. As an experienced mountaineer and skier, Rønneberg understood the demands Norwegian winter mountains placed on footwear. During training at an SOE camp in Scotland in preparation for the operation, he encountered two students trekking in the moors wearing mountain boots of exceptional quality. Upon inquiring about their maker, Rønneberg visited Robert Lawrie's workshop to commission a pair of boots built to his own specifications and on a custom last.

Robert Lawrie was a Scottish bootmaker whose reputation extended beyond his shoemaking skills. An active climber himself, he participated as a privateer in four 24 Hours of Le Mans races and served as the primary producer of expedition equipment for British expeditions from the 1930s through the 1960s. A "pair of Lawries" became a common expression among British mountaineers, and his contributions to mountaineering earned recognition through a glacier in Antarctica named after him. The boots Lawrie crafted for Rønneberg accompanied him on both Operation Gunnerside and Operation Fieldfare, which concluded with Norway's liberation in 1945.

Dundas Footwear borrowed Rønneberg's original boots from Ålesund Museum and brought them to British last-maker Michael James, who created an exact replica of the last. Using this reproduction last, the company developed the first Gunnerside model, incorporating the same construction methods as their Type 01 boot. The boots, manufactured by the Oslo-based company, are produced by William Lennon Co., a British manufacturer with over a century of history.

The Gunnerside 42 (GS42) serves as the 80th anniversary edition, named to reflect the original boots' 1942 manufacture date. The model replicates the original design while incorporating modern conveniences including rubber soles and speed hooks. For the upper, the manufacturer selected vegetable-tanned waxy leather from Badalassi Carlo, an Italian tannery in Tuscany with over 50 years of experience specializing in traditional vegetable tanning methods. The leather choice aims to replicate the subtle character of the original boots.

The construction employs a Norwegian welt with an added storm welt, a configuration that provides enhanced comfort and extreme durability in various weather conditions. The shaft features wadmal, a dense, undyed wool fabric that creates a soft transition for the wearer's legs while providing both insulation and breathability. The inner lining consists of soft calf leather covering molded memory foam, designed to provide fit, comfort, and ankle protection. A Swiss-made rubber sole with enhanced grip protects the leather sole underneath. The Gunnerside last offers a wide footbed and roomy toe box with balanced proportions. An interchangeable ergonomic insole provides additional customization options. The 80th anniversary edition is available exclusively in black, with pricing at 7,000 Norwegian kroner and an approximate lead time of seven months.

The Gunnerside 22 (GS22) represents a modern interpretation developed through collaboration with active and former Norwegian SOF operatives, wilderness survival instructors, and The Research Council of Norway. The project aimed to create a combat boot for the Norwegian Special Forces designed for heavy use across multiple seasons. The construction employs a modified Norwegian welt/cupsole hybrid, with the welt hidden behind a rubber cup sole that protects the inner construction while facilitating resoling.

The upper utilizes full grain leather measuring 3.0 to 3.2 millimeters thick, sourced from a German tannery. The leather is reversed, positioning the grain side inward where it functions as a water barrier, while the more durable flesh side faces outward to resist cuts and abrasions. The inner lining consists of full grain leather measuring 1.1 to 1.4 millimeters thick. A Schomburg & Graf antistatic rubber sole provides traction and durability. Memory foam incorporated into the tongue and around the ankles offers cushioning and protection. A leather and Cambrelle antibacterial insole manages moisture and odor. The boot weighs 1.1 kilograms in size 42, with all materials and production sourced entirely from European suppliers.

Design features include the elimination of seams at the heel to address a common failure point in boot construction. The lace loops are closed to prevent snagging and enable rapid tightening. A two-zone lacing system, with zones positioned above and below the instep, allows independent adjustment of fit in different sections of the boot. A rubber strip on the inside of the boot provides protection to the lower portion while adding grip for climbing applications.

Norwegian welt construction, despite its name, originates in Italy. Also known as storm welt, waterproof welt, Rovescia, or storm welted construction, this traditional method has been employed for centuries. The technique involves bending the upper outward and creating multiple seams that pass downward through the sole and inward through the insole. Unlike a traditional Goodyear welt that curves beneath the shoe's upper leather, the Norwegian welt remains completely exterior, with visible stitching on the outside of the shoe where it pierces the upper leather and connects to the insole.

The Norwegian welt features two exterior stitches compared to the single stitch used in Goodyear construction. The outsole stitch holds together the upper, midsole, and outsole, while the Norwegian stitch connects the upper to the insole. This configuration creates a cavity between the welt and the insole, typically filled with cork. The double-stitching creates a strong, secure bond between the upper and sole that helps prevent separation over time. The construction method allows greater flexibility in the sole, providing a more natural feel during walking. Norwegian welt construction has historically been employed in ski boots and performance footwear where water resistance and durability are essential. The method enables straightforward resoling by skilled cobblers, extending the footwear's useful life.

Badalassi Carlo operates as a member of the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale (Consortium for Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather), founded in 1994 by Tuscan tanners. The consortium includes more than 20 associated tanneries, all operating in Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. Member tanneries share production standards and commitment to preserving traditional vegetable tanning methods passed down by Tuscan master tanners for centuries. The process employs natural tannins extracted from tree bark and other organic materials, combining ancient recipes with contemporary technology. Vegetable tanning requires substantial time and represents a combination of technical knowledge and practical experience. The process is environmentally sustainable and produces leather safe for contact with sensitive skin. Vegetable-tanned leather eventually biodegrades naturally, reducing long-term environmental impact.

The tannery specializes in vacchetta, or vegetable-tanned cow leather, offering products with refined, exclusive hand-finishes alongside traditional quality leather types. Production includes Pueblo, Minerva, and Wax leathers, all full grain articles with distinctive characteristics. The leathers find application in footwear manufacturing, bags, small leather goods, and bookbinding items, with thickness ranging from 1 millimeter to 2 millimeters. The Tuscany leather district, located between the provinces of Florence and Pisa, is recognized as a center of high-quality vegetable-tanned leather production in Italy. Only the tannery and select artisan Tuscan tanneries within the consortium are authorized to use the "Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana" trademark.