Horween Chromepak

Unlike Horween's combination-tanned Chromexcel, Chromepak uses straight chrome tanning without any vegetable tannins. The leather is aniline-dyed and receives an extraordinarily heavy oil treatment that results in a noticeably waxy surface and distinctive crayon-like scent. Available in natural earth tones including brown, dark brown, green, and saddle tan, Chromepak is typically offered in heavy weights of 5-6 ounces or more, making it ideal for demanding applications like heritage boots, bags, and heavy-duty leather goods.

Chromepak production begins with chrome tanning, where hides are treated exclusively with chromium salts rather than the combination tanning methods used in other Horween leathers. During the retanning process, a heavy blend of greases and waxes is hot stuffed into the leather under heat, allowing these protective compounds to penetrate throughout the hide structure.

The stuffing blend is pasted to glass panes during drying to prevent shrinkage, which reduces stretch in the finished leather. This technique ensures the oils and waxes remain evenly distributed rather than migrating to the surface. The intensive oil treatment creates the leather's distinctive properties while maintaining its structural integrity under stress.

Chromepak exhibits a medium-soft temper despite its heavy weight, allowing easy bending even in thicknesses of 5-6 ounces or more. The surface typically feels waxy and may appear greasy when new due to oils naturally migrating to the surface with temperature changes.

The leather develops a strong pull-up effect when flexed, revealing rich and varied color tones beneath the surface finish. Standard thickness options include 5 ounces (2 mm) and 6 ounces (2.4 mm), though custom weights are available. When processed into finished goods like watch straps, the thickness typically ranges from 5-6 mm at the lugs, tapering to 2-2.5 mm at the tail.

A hazy film called bloom may appear on the surface as oils and waxes respond to temperature fluctuations. This natural phenomenon can be easily rubbed back into the leather with a brush or cloth, and heat application causes it to disappear entirely.

Chromepak ranks among Horween's most durable tannages, engineered to withstand heavy use and harsh conditions. The extensive oil content provides strong water resistance while requiring minimal maintenance compared to other leather types. Scratches tend to blend naturally with use rather than remaining visible, contributing to the leather's reputation for improving with age.

The combination of chrome tanning and intensive oil treatment creates leather that can last decades with proper care. This durability made it particularly suitable for its original industrial applications and continues to make it popular for heritage footwear applications where longevity is paramount.

Major heritage footwear manufacturers regularly specify Chromepak for premium boots and shoes. Viberg features Service Boots in Saddle Tan Chromepak, describing it as "one of our most popular leathers to date due to its extreme pull up and heavily oiled finish." The company characterizes Saddle Tan Chromepak as "a warm brown leather with red and orange undertones."

Nicks Boots collaborated with Horween to develop the "Spokane" tannage, based on what they describe as Horween's "indestructible Chromepak tannage." The leather's robust properties make it well-suited for work boots, moccasins, bags, and other applications requiring high durability.

Oak Street Bootmakers and other heritage manufacturers utilize Chromepak for harness leather, custom leather goods, and premium footwear where water resistance and longevity are essential characteristics.

Chromepak requires minimal maintenance due to its high oil content, which provides ongoing conditioning. The natural oils may cause some color transfer (leaching) during initial use, particularly with lighter-colored clothing or materials.

Temperature changes may cause bloom to appear as oils and waxes migrate to the surface. This hazy film is normal and easily managed by rubbing with a soft cloth or brush. Heat application, such as wearing boots in warm weather, naturally redistributes the oils and eliminates visible bloom.

The distinctive crayon-like scent is characteristic of the heavy oil content and typically diminishes over time with use. No additional conditioning is usually necessary during the leather's break-in period due to the intensive factory treatment.