Horween Chicago Tan Chromexcel

The leather undergoes Horween's traditional combination tanning process, utilizing at least 89 separate production steps over 28 working days. Chicago Tan Chromexcel exhibits the characteristic pull-up properties of Chromexcel leather, where oils and greases migrate during flexing to create tonal variations. This aging behavior develops a vintage aesthetic over time while maintaining durability and requiring minimal maintenance.

Chicago Tan Chromexcel follows Horween's century-old Chromexcel production method, developed in 1911 and refined over more than 100 years. The manufacturing process begins with chrome tanning in large wooden drums, creating "wet blue" hides after 48 hours of processing. This initial tanning is followed by vegetable retanning using proprietary bark extracts that Horween has been producing since 1905.

The distinctive characteristics emerge during the hot stuffing process, where the leather is impregnated with a secret blend of natural oils, waxes, and greases. This blend includes food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax, which are applied using steamed mills. The hot stuffing creates the signature "pull-up" effect, where oil and wax blends temporarily displace when the leather is stretched or bent, causing lightening of the surface.

Final finishing involves several hand-rubbed coats of aniline dye to achieve the Chicago Tan coloration, followed by an application of Neatsfoot oil. This non-pigmented finishing allows the natural grain patterns to remain visible while providing the tan coloration. The entire process utilizes all five floors of Horween's Chicago facility and represents one of the most complex leather production methods in contemporary tanning.

Chicago Tan Chromexcel exhibits the classic pull-up leather properties that define the Chromexcel family. When folded or flexed, the high concentration of oils and greases migrates within the leather fibers, creating temporary tonal variations that return to the base color as the leather relaxes. This characteristic pull-up effect serves both aesthetic and practical purposes, contributing to the leather's flexibility and water resistance.

The aging process develops what Cheaney describes as "refined ruggedness," where creases and furrows appear quickly through use, creating a worn-in vintage aesthetic. The combination tanning process allows the leather to lighten, darken, scuff, and soften over time while maintaining structural integrity. The vegetable retanning component enables patina development, while the chrome tanning provides durability and softness.

Maintenance requirements remain minimal due to the high oil and wax content from the hot stuffing process. The leather can withstand regular use with only occasional treatment using Neatsfoot oil or specialized leather creams designed for heavily stuffed leathers. The whitish waxy appearance called "bloom" that sometimes develops on the surface indicates proper nourishment and is considered a desirable characteristic.

Joseph Cheaney & Sons has maintained its commitment to English shoemaking since 1886, when Joseph Cheaney established his boot and shoe manufacturing business in Desborough, Northamptonshire. The company moved to its current purpose-built factory in 1896, housing all aspects of production from leather cutting to final polishing. This facility continues to operate today, representing over 125 years of continuous manufacturing at the same location.

The selection of Horween Chicago Tan Chromexcel reflects Cheaney's sourcing philosophy of obtaining premium materials from the world's finest tanneries. Northamptonshire's shoemaking tradition dates back to the 1600s, establishing the region as the center of British footwear manufacturing. Cheaney's location within this traditional shoemaking area connects the company to centuries of accumulated expertise in leather craftsmanship.

Each pair of Cheaney shoes requires up to eight weeks to complete, involving over 200 separate manufacturing steps performed entirely within the Northamptonshire factory. The company received the Queen's Award for Enterprise in International Trade in 2016, recognizing its commitment to British manufacturing and export success. The exclusive arrangement with Horween for Chicago Tan Chromexcel demonstrates Cheaney's ongoing investment in distinctive materials that differentiate its products in the heritage footwear market.

Chicago Tan Chromexcel appears across multiple styles within Cheaney's collection, particularly in the Vintage Collection that emphasizes industrial-inspired aesthetics. The Clara R women's Chelsea boot features the leather with contrasting elastic gores, while the Josie rigger boot incorporates Chicago Tan Chromexcel with contrasting zips and double Dainite rubber soles for enhanced durability.

The Jarrow R Derby boot, part of Cheaney's nine-eyelet boot offering from the Vintage Collection, showcases the leather's ability to develop character through wear while maintaining the formal appearance expected of English dress boots. The Ingleborough hiker boot utilizes Chicago Tan Chromexcel for outdoor applications, pairing the leather with ankle support features and Brit Grip rubber soles designed for varied terrain.

Construction typically employs Goodyear welted methodology, allowing for resoling and extending the functional life of the footwear. The 12508 last, introduced by Cheaney in 2009 and now considered a company classic, accommodates many Chicago Tan Chromexcel models. This last shape balances the traditional proportions expected in English footwear with contemporary comfort requirements.