Horween Crimson Chromexcel

Leather Color • exclusive for Grant Stone

About

Crimson Chromexcel is a reddish-brown color variant of Chromexcel leather tanned by Horween Leather Company and used exclusively by Grant Stone for their heritage footwear collection. This leather features the characteristic pull-up effect and supple feel that defines Chromexcel, while offering a distinctive crimson hue that develops unique aging patterns over time.

Grant Stone developed a natural edge finish specifically to accent the crimson upper, creating a casual aesthetic that complements the leather's rich color. The leather follows Horween's traditional 89-step manufacturing process, taking 28 working days to complete, and incorporates the hot-stuffed tannage that infuses oils and waxes into the leather fibers during production.

Grant Stone Product Range

Grant Stone offers several boot models constructed with Crimson Chromexcel leather, all priced at $435. The collection includes the Diesel Boot, featuring a plain toe pattern with proven leather uppers and Goodyear-welt construction. The Brass Boot combines the crimson leather with a hand-sewn moc toe onto a one-piece vamp, providing robust construction and all-day comfort.

Additional models include the Field Boot, designed with the feel of a vintage leather hunting boot using time-tested construction methods. The Ottawa Boot and Chelsea Boot round out the crimson collection, each incorporating Grant Stone's emphasis on heritage bootmaking and non-compromise construction quality.

Leather Properties

Crimson Chromexcel exhibits the fundamental characteristics of Horween's combination-tanned leather process. The hot-stuffing technique impregnates the leather with oils, waxes, and greases using premium components including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax. This process creates the leather's ability to withstand repeated wettings while drying soft, and allows it to remain hydrated over years to avoid cracking.

The leather demonstrates a pronounced pull-up effect, where the temporary displacement of oils and wax causes lightening when the material is stretched or bent. Creasing and color variation are expected characteristics of this natural, aniline leather, with each hide developing uniquely over time. The combination tanning creates an elastic leather that can stretch to accommodate pressure more than most leathers, reducing break-in requirements.

Manufacturing Process

The production of Crimson Chromexcel follows Horween's proprietary combination tanning method developed in 1911. The process begins with chrome tanning, which yields soft, supple, and durable properties, followed by vegetable retanning using carefully guarded bark extract blends. This combination provides the benefits of chrome tanning while adding the roundness and fullness associated with vegetable-tanned leathers.

The hot stuffing process takes place in steamed mills, where the leather is impregnated with solid-at-room-temperature oils and waxes. The finished leather receives several hand-rubbed coats of aniline finish, maintaining the non-pigmented surface that allows the natural grain patterns to show through. The final application includes Neatsfoot oil to complete the conditioning process.

Heritage and Context

Grant Stone sources the Crimson Chromexcel from Horween Leather Company's Chicago facility, continuing a relationship with tanneries that represent heritage craftsmanship. The company's philosophy centers on traditional boot-making fundamentals and quality-driven production, with Goodyear-welt construction described as being "in their DNA."

The crimson color represents part of Grant Stone's approach to offering distinctive leather options while maintaining construction standards. The company operates between Xiamen, China, where manufacturing takes place, and Southwest Michigan, focusing on direct-to-consumer sales and properly fitting footwear designed to last.

Aging Characteristics

Crimson Chromexcel develops character through wear, with the hot-stuffed oils and waxes creating evolving color patterns as the leather ages. The combination tanning allows the leather to develop highs and lows from creasing and individual wear, creating characteristics that become unique to each wearer. The proprietary blend of oils and waxes infused during the tanning process enables the leather to age well while maintaining structural integrity.

The natural edge finish developed by Grant Stone complements the aging process, allowing the crimson color to evolve while maintaining the casual aesthetic. The aniline finish permits the leather's natural characteristics to emerge over time, developing the patina that characterizes well-aged Chromexcel leather.

References

  • 1.

    "Chromexcel® — Horween Leather Co.". Horween Leather Company. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Diesel Boot Crimson Chromexcel". Grant Stone Shoes. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 3.

    "The Tanning Process for Horween Chromexcel". DaLuca Straps. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Chromexcel Leather from Horween Tannery". Delugs. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Horween Leather - Why It's Among the Best". International Leather Club. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

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  • By _cryptid_jack • April 1, 2024"I started my first two months wearing them every day straight with only Sundays being the day they weren’t worn, as it was a day off work where I didn’t have any plans to leave the house. My job is retail, suit shop, carpet and concrete, lots of stretching and bending and moving carts and racks of clothes around. I’d say it’s a fairly active environment, I don’t sit often, in fact often I’m speed walking all day haha! I’ve also worn them on dates with my wife! I’d say the average wardrobe they’re paired with would be smart chinos, shirt and tie, and tweed blazer, but occasionally shined and conditioned to be worn with a navy suit. I often don’t think about trying to keep my shoes clean or clear from debris so scuffs and scrapes happen regularly. After that first two month period the rubber delaminated at the toes which caught me off guard but otherwise everything about the shoes has held up tremendously. Although, whether it’s my lifestyle or perhaps a touch of rough metal in an eyelet, I’ve gone through shoelaces like mad and am on my 4th pair. I wore them in blizzard white out conditions, heavy rain, and long hours in the sunlight, as well as inside at my job under the fluorescent bulbs. All in all these are now the boots my work colleagues associate with me, and I know they’re gonna be a part of my life for a very long time!..."Read the full review
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