Horween Chromexcel Overdyed Black is a specialized variant of Chromexcel leather produced by Horween Leather Company. This combination-tanned leather undergoes an additional overdyeing process that creates a deep, uniform black finish while maintaining the durability characteristics of traditional Chromexcel. Unlike standard black Chromexcel, the overdyed variant lacks the distinctive pull-up effect, offering consistent coloration throughout wear.
The leather represents a technical achievement in American leather manufacturing, combining Horween's century-old hot-stuffing process with modern overdyeing techniques. This process creates leather suitable for premium footwear applications where uniform black appearance is prioritized over the characteristic aging properties of standard Chromexcel variants.
Horween Chromexcel Overdyed Black follows the established 89-step process taking 28 working days across all five floors of the Horween facility. The base leather undergoes combination tanning using both chrome salts and proprietary vegetable bark extracts. The hot stuffing process impregnates the hides with oils, waxes, and greases that are solid at room temperature, including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax.
The overdyeing process distinguishes this variant from standard black Chromexcel. While specific technical details of the overdyeing procedure remain proprietary, the process creates a deeper, more consistent black penetration throughout the leather structure. This additional treatment modifies the leather's surface characteristics, eliminating the pull-up effect that defines other Chromexcel variants.
Hand-rubbed aniline dye application followed by a final Neatsfoot Oil coating completes the finishing process. The result is a full-grain leather with medium to soft temper that maintains the flexibility and strength characteristics of combination tanning.
The overdyed black variant exhibits distinct properties compared to standard Chromexcel colors. The leather maintains full-grain construction with minimal surface correction, preserving the natural hide texture. The aniline finish allows the natural grain patterns to remain visible beneath the black coloration.
The absence of pull-up effect represents the most significant characteristic difference. When stressed or bent, the leather maintains consistent coloration rather than exhibiting the temporary lightening seen in standard Chromexcel variants. This property makes overdyed black particularly suitable for applications requiring uniform appearance throughout use.
The leather retains the supple feel and durability properties associated with Chromexcel's combination tanning process. The hot-stuffed oils and waxes provide inherent water resistance and flexibility while maintaining structural integrity under stress.
Horween Chromexcel Overdyed Black is available across the standard weight range offered for Chromexcel leather. Weights range from 2-3 oz (0.8-1.2 mm) horsefronts suitable for lighter applications to heavy 9-10 oz (3.6-4.0 mm) cowhide for robust applications. The most commonly available specification is 9/10 oz (3.6/4mm) thickness.
Hide sizes typically range around 19-21.9 square feet per piece, following standard industry measurements for cowhide. The leather maintains consistent thickness and grain quality across the usable area of each hide.
The overdyed black variant finds primary application in heritage footwear where uniform black appearance is desired without sacrificing leather quality. The consistent coloration makes it particularly suitable for formal boot styles and dress shoe applications where the pull-up effect might be considered undesirable.
Military and work boot applications benefit from the uniform appearance that doesn't show wear patterns as prominently as pull-up leathers. The leather's durability and water resistance properties, inherited from the base Chromexcel process, support demanding use conditions while maintaining professional appearance.
Premium leather goods applications include belts, bags, and accessories where consistent black coloration throughout the product lifecycle enhances the professional appearance. The leather's aging properties differ from standard Chromexcel, developing patina more subtly without the dramatic color changes associated with pull-up leathers.
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