Horween Natural Cypress

The leather follows Horween's combination tanning methodology, beginning with chrome tanning followed by a heavy vegetable retannage that incorporates different vegetable tannins than those used in Chromexcel. This unique combination provides Natural Cypress with the durability and suppleness of chrome tanning while adding the structural integrity and patina development capabilities of vegetable tanning. The "natural" designation refers not to a specific color but to the condition of the leather, representing its undyed state that allows the inherent characteristics of the hide to shine through.

Natural Cypress is particularly valued by heritage boot makers and leather enthusiasts for its exceptional patina development, with the ability to evolve dramatically through wear and develop distinctive character patterns that reflect the owner's usage. The leather's combination of strength, flexibility, and aging potential makes it ideal for premium footwear applications where long-term character development is desired.

Natural Cypress follows Horween's combination tanning process but utilizes different vegetable tannins than the company's signature Chromexcel leather. The process begins with chrome tanning to create a soft, supple, and durable base, followed by a heavy vegetable retannage using proprietary bark extracts that give Cypress its distinctive character compared to other combination-tanned leathers.

The manufacturing process includes several key steps: the leather is initially nourished through a fat liquoring process in the drum, where oils and waxes suspended in water are absorbed into the leather for enhanced depth and feel. Following this treatment, the leather undergoes finishing with stains and topical wax coats that are ironed into the leather, creating a smooth, tight grain with natural color variations and rich pull-up characteristics.

The final stage involves a mechanical drying process that results in a more compact structure compared to other Horween leathers. This mechanical processing contributes to the leather's substantial feel while maintaining the flexibility needed for comfortable footwear construction. Natural Cypress is typically produced at a full 6-ounce weight (approximately 2.4mm), providing the substance required for heritage boot construction while allowing for the shortened break-in time that distinguishes it from fully vegetable-tanned alternatives.

Natural Cypress exhibits a distinctive combination of characteristics that set it apart from other Horween leathers. The natural color appears as a tan to honey hue with significant variation between individual hides, providing each piece with unique character from the outset. The leather maintains a matte finish that showcases the natural grain patterns while demonstrating excellent pull-up properties where oils and waxes redistribute under mechanical stress.

The patina development potential of Natural Cypress is exceptional, rated at 7/10 by industry experts, with the ability to develop heavy patination through regular wear. The combination tanning process enables the leather to evolve and burnish over time, gracefully incorporating wear marks, scratches, and handling patterns into the overall aesthetic. Color transfer and darkening occur particularly in high-stress areas, such as where the tongue rubs against brass eyelets or where the leather wrinkles during normal movement.

The leather's mechanical properties reflect its combination tanning heritage, with the chrome base providing softness and durability while the heavy vegetable retannage adds structural integrity and character development capabilities. This balance allows Natural Cypress to adapt to the wearer's foot shape while maintaining its form and developing attractive wear patterns that enhance rather than detract from its appearance.

Natural Cypress is extensively used in heritage footwear construction, particularly by premium boot makers who value its aging characteristics and substantial feel. The leather's 6-ounce weight makes it ideal for service boots, work boots, and casual footwear where durability and character development are priorities. The shortened break-in period, despite the leather's substantial nature, makes it suitable for everyday wear applications.

Truman Boot Company has been a notable adopter of Natural Cypress, featuring it in their Plain Toe and Service Boot models where the leather's patina development potential is showcased through regular wear documentation. The company's collaboration with Natural Cypress demonstrates the leather's ability to develop distinctive wear patterns, including color transfer at stress points and attractive darkening in areas of regular flexing and movement.

The leather works well with various construction methods including Goodyear welting and stitchdown construction, with the latter being particularly popular due to its compatibility with the leather's utilitarian character and aging potential. Heritage boot makers appreciate Natural Cypress for applications requiring both immediate comfort and long-term character development, making it suitable for boots intended for daily wear and gradual evolution.

Natural Cypress requires minimal maintenance due to its oil and wax content from the fat liquoring and finishing processes. The combination tanning provides inherent resilience, while the natural oils and topical wax coats offer protection against normal wear and environmental exposure. Regular conditioning helps maintain the leather's flexibility and can enhance the patina development process.

The leather's natural character means that scuffs, scratches, and wear marks typically integrate into the overall patina development rather than requiring immediate attention. The pull-up effect allows minor surface damage to blend with the leather's evolving appearance, while the oils and waxes help redistribute and minimize the visibility of handling marks.

Routine care focuses on keeping the leather properly conditioned rather than intensive cleaning, as the patina development is part of the leather's intended character evolution. The matte finish and natural color variations mean that Natural Cypress develops an increasingly rich and complex appearance through regular use, making careful preservation of wear patterns more important than pristine maintenance.