Horween Double Cordovan

Unlike regular Shell Cordovan leather, Double Cordovan intentionally retains additional thickness by skipping the secondary shaving step that would fully expose the shell layer. This process creates durable leather that develops distinctive patina characteristics while maintaining the premium qualities associated with Horween's horsehide tanning expertise.

Double Cordovan production begins with a 60-day pit tanning period using proprietary tree bark extracts originally formulated by Horween founder Isidore Horween. This vegetable tanning process takes place at the company's Chicago facility on Elston and Ashland, where all genuine Shell Cordovan leather is processed.

Following the extensive tanning period, the leather undergoes hot stuffing with custom waxes and greases, followed by hand oiling treatments. The hides then cure for an additional 90 days, bringing the total processing time to nearly six months. This extended timeline reflects the traditional "slow manufacturing" approach that distinguishes artisanal leather production from industrial methods.

The key distinction in Double Cordovan production lies in the intentional omission of the secondary shaving step typically performed on Shell Cordovan. This decision preserves the leather's substantial thickness while maintaining the shell layer's characteristics, though not fully exposed. Each shell is hand curried by skilled artisans, but the additional material thickness is retained rather than removed through the standard shaving process.

Double Cordovan measures 3.5-4mm in thickness, making it significantly heavier than regular Shell Cordovan leather and representing one of the thickest leathers used in premium bootmaking. This substantial thickness contributes to notable durability and abrasion resistance while maintaining the leather's workability for footwear construction.

The leather's natural color develops from tanning liquors, waxes, greases, and oils without additional coloring agents, creating a distinctive terracotta-like appearance. This natural coloring system allows for rapid darkening and burnishing with wear, producing high natural variation in each piece where individual boots develop distinct characteristics.

The leather combines the best properties of Horween's two distinct leather types: the refined characteristics of Shell Cordovan and the rugged durability of Workshoe Butt. This hybrid nature creates leather that maintains elegance while providing reliable performance in demanding applications.

Quality control involves selecting pieces cut so every square foot contains the shell layer, with Horween specifically choosing sections containing the largest shells with minimal scarring or cosmetic defects for Double Cordovan applications.

Premium bootmakers utilize Double Cordovan primarily for heritage and fashion boots rather than working applications, despite the leather's substantial durability. The substantial yet supple nature of Horween leathers makes them easier to break in compared to other heavy leathers while developing distinctive patina over time.

Viberg represents the most prominent bootmaker offering Natural Crust Double Cordovan, featuring this leather in their Stitchdown Service Boot as an exclusive collaboration. The partnership showcases the leather's capabilities in traditional construction methods while highlighting its distinctive aesthetic development properties.

English shoemakers, including Crockett & Jones, have incorporated Horween cordovan leathers into made-to-order shoe offerings, demonstrating the leather's versatility across different construction styles and markets. Major American heritage boot manufacturers including Red Wing, Alden, and Wolverine rely on Horween's leathers generally for their patina development characteristics and long-term durability.

The leather's thickness and durability make it particularly suitable for boots intended for extended wear and character development, appealing to heritage footwear enthusiasts who value leather that improves with age and use.