Horween Cigar Shell Cordovan

Cigar Shell Cordovan starts as a rich, medium-to-dark brown that develops a distinctive patina over time, maintaining much of its original color while acquiring subtle olive undertones. The leather's exclusivity stems from Horween's decision to produce this particular color only for Alden, their largest shell cordovan customer, as part of a partnership that has lasted since 1930.

Cigar Shell Cordovan is one of only two colors exclusively reserved by Horween for Alden Shoe Company, along with Ravello. This exclusive arrangement reflects the deep partnership between the two companies, with Alden serving as Horween's largest consumer of shell cordovan leather. The relationship dates back to 1930, when Alden first began sourcing leather from the Chicago-based tannery.

Horween very rarely produces Cigar Shell Cordovan, making it extremely difficult to obtain even through Alden's official channels. The scarcity is intentional, as the color represents one of the pinnacles of the exclusive collaboration between the companies. This arrangement has created a color that is highly regarded among cordovan enthusiasts, who often wait years for the opportunity to purchase items made from this leather.

The exclusivity extends beyond simple brand preference to represent a strategic business relationship where certain colors are reserved as a mark of distinction for longtime partners. This practice allows both companies to maintain their premium positioning in the heritage footwear market.

Cigar Shell Cordovan exhibits distinctive aging properties that set it apart from other shell cordovan colors. The leather begins as a medium-to-dark brown with rich, warm tones that provide an elegant foundation for footwear and leather goods. Over time and with use, the color develops subtle olive undertones while largely maintaining its original character.

The aging process of Cigar is notably different from other shell cordovan colors. While some lightening occurs in areas where the shell experiences rolling and flexing, the original color remains remarkably intact compared to other shell cordovan varieties. This stability makes it particularly appealing to collectors who value consistency in their leather goods' appearance over time.

The color's distinctive characteristics are the result of Horween's proprietary dyeing process, which uses hand-applied dyes that penetrate the shell cordovan's dense fiber structure. Each piece of Cigar Shell Cordovan shows slight variations due to the hand-finishing process, ensuring that no two items are exactly identical.

The production of Cigar Shell Cordovan follows Horween's traditional shell cordovan manufacturing process, which takes at least six months from start to finish. The process begins with horsehides sourced from countries such as Canada or France, where horse meat production provides hides as a byproduct. Only two oval-shaped shells from each horsehide are suitable for cordovan production, yielding enough material for just two pairs of shoes.

The shells undergo vegetable tanning using formulas that have remained largely unchanged since Isadore Horween founded the company in 1905. The pit-tanning process takes approximately two months, during which the shells slowly absorb Horween's signature blend of tree bark extracts. Following tanning, the shells are hot-stuffed with natural oils and waxes to prevent breakdown and ensure longevity.

The finishing process for Cigar Shell Cordovan involves hand-application of the proprietary color formulation, followed by hand-slicking to even out the staining. Each shell is then hand-glazed to achieve the characteristic glossy finish that distinguishes shell cordovan from other leather types. The entire process requires skilled artisans who have mastered techniques passed down through generations at the Horween facility.

Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween as "Horween and Company," originally producing shell cordovan exclusively for razor strops. The company has remained family-owned through five generations and maintains its original Chicago location, making it the only producer of genuine shell cordovan in North America.

The relationship between Horween and Alden began in 1930, establishing one of the longest-running partnerships in American luxury footwear. This collaboration has allowed both companies to refine their expertise over nearly a century, with Alden becoming Horween's largest shell cordovan customer and Horween developing exclusive colors like Cigar specifically for Alden's use.

The development of exclusive colors like Cigar represents the evolution of the partnership from a simple supplier-customer relationship to a strategic collaboration that benefits both companies' premium market positioning. The arrangement ensures that certain colors remain rare and highly desirable, maintaining their status as luxury materials in the heritage footwear market.