Letterman ZERO

The boot features stitchdown construction with handmade uppers by Show Goto and hand-lasted work by Sinando, combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with machine-assisted sole attachment. Made-to-order production delivers completed boots within six months of ordering, compared to the six-year waiting period for Goto's fully bespoke White Kloud boots.

The Letterman ZERO employs a derby boot silhouette with a distinctive six-eyelet configuration. Four eyelets space evenly up the instep, with two additional eyelets positioned farther apart at the ankle. This layout allows the boot to be put on and removed without unlacing the top eyelets, while enabling the facings to be tightened with a single pull of the laces.

Available leather options include Oil Waxed Rough Out or Oil Waxed Smooth finishes, both offered exclusively in black. Previous iterations of the Letterman model have utilized Badalassi Carlo Minerva leather, demonstrating the model's evolution across different material offerings. Sole options comprise either Vibram #700 or Commando patterns, both providing traction suited to varied conditions.

The construction process divides responsibilities among specialized craftsmen. Show Goto handcrafts the uppers, which are then hand-lasted by Sinando, a workshop operated by Takayuki Negishi, who trained alongside Goto at the Guild of Crafts shoemaking school in Tokyo. The stitchdown construction for sole attachment uses machine-assisted methods rather than full hand-sewing, distinguishing the production approach from White Kloud's entirely handmade process.

This division of labor between upper construction, lasting, and sole attachment reflects traditional Japanese workshop organization while maintaining quality control through Goto's oversight of the overall manufacturing process. The combination of handwork and selective machine assistance enables more consistent production schedules than fully handmade construction.

Jack & White Brothers produces four pairs monthly across all models, with the Letterman ZERO released in limited-quantity batches when ordering periods open. The February 2025 release carried a retail price of ¥85,800 (tax included), positioned below the €900 starting price for other Jack & White Brothers models. Orders close when allocated capacity fills, with the model periodically reopening for new order windows.

The six-month delivery timeline from order placement contrasts with the approximately one-year waiting period standard for other Jack & White Brothers models. Unlike White Kloud custom boots, which require in-person consultation at Goto's Koshigaya workshop, Jack & White Brothers boots can be ordered online during active ordering periods. Limited production runs frequently sell out shortly after order windows open.