Derby Shoes

The manufacturer offers six handwelted Goodyear construction variations for the derby shoes: 270° Norwegian Chain-Stitch Welt Construction, 360° Norwegian Welt Construction, 360° Split-Storm Welt Construction, 360° Flat Welt Construction, 360° Veldtschoen Construction, and 270° Flat Double-Row Welt Construction. Hand-welting uses insoles that are 8-10mm thick, compared to the 3-4mm thick insoles in machine Goodyear welting. The hand-welted construction creates a very small internal cavity of only a few millimeters high, while machine Goodyear construction uses a canvas rib glued to the insole, creating a 5-7mm high cavity filled with cork and glue mass. Hand-welted shoes use a lock stitch where every stitch can hold separately, while machine Goodyear construction uses a chain stitch sewn by machine. This construction method allows hand-welted shoes to typically be resoled more times because the rib is part of the insole and does not degrade as quickly.

The shoes are available on four last options: Barnes Last, Winchester Last, Nosler Last, and Hornady Last. All brass eyelets are used as hardware across the derby shoe line.

The derby shoes can be ordered in multiple leathers from established tanneries. Heritage leather options include Tan Pull-Up Roughout, Dark Brown Pull-Up, and Natural Vegetable Tanned. Horween leathers available are Color 8 Chromexcel (CXL) and Natural Double Horse Front (DHF) Horse Hide. Tochigi options include Light Brown Oil Vachetta and Brown Jeans leather. Additional specialty leathers are Rocado Emerald Green Shell Cordovan and Black Teacore leather from Shinki Hikaku in Japan.

For outsoles, customers can select from Vibram options including the 2060 Sport Wedges Sole in Beige, the 2333 Montara Sole in Black, and the Gloxi crepe wedge sole with cuts along the piece for flexibility and grip. Dr. Sole options include the 1091 Cork Half Sole in Brown, the 1220 Supergrip Full Sole in Black, the 1220 Supergrip Heels in Black, the 1122 Raw Cord Full Sole in Black, and the 1081 Cork Full Sole in White.

The derby shoes are offered in three toe styles: plain toe, split toe, and broguing cap toe. Each variation can be customized through the made-to-order service with the available construction methods, leathers, and outsoles.

The derby shoes are produced on a made-to-order basis with delivery guaranteed in four to six weeks after ordering. The company offers free worldwide shipping. Bandung has established itself as a center for craftsmanship with a long-standing tradition in leatherwork and footwear production, where handcrafted footwear uses full-grain leather and Goodyear welt construction for durability and repairability.