Kobel Roughout

The leather receives unique properties through Kobel's hot-stuffing process, where hides are soaked in heated oils and waxes within rotating drums. This vegetable-tanning approach, using pit or barrel methods with plant extracts over several weeks, creates leather suitable for heritage footwear applications. Kobel's roughout leather has been used in custom boondocker boots and other traditional footwear styles.

Roughout leather features a rough, textured surface with a suede-like feel resulting from the natural imperfections and fibers of the hide's flesh side. The material maintains the full-grain structure of the leather but presents it in reverse, marrying the soft texture of suede with the resilience of full-grain leather. The exposed flesh side typically proves tougher than the grain side, providing enhanced ability to handle rough conditions.

The leather's textured surface excels at concealing scuffs and scratches, reducing the need for constant maintenance compared to smooth-grain leathers. Its appearance remains relatively static, showing wear less readily than smooth leather finishes. The material demonstrates resilience to water and scratches, making it appropriate for footwear exposed to water, snow, and mud. This durability led to roughout's adoption for Marine Corps combat boots during World War II, as the material didn't require shining and offered greater breathability than smooth leather.

Lederfabrik Gebrüder Kobel, founded in 1877 by Hubertus Kobel in Kellinghusen, Germany, produces vegetable-tanned leather using pit-tanning methods. The tannery places hides in water pits with plant extracts for several weeks, employing one of the oldest leather-making techniques. Kobel remains among a handful of German tanneries still using traditional pit-tanning, described as "a niche of this niche" within the leather industry.

The hot-stuffing process involves placing vegetable-tanned leather in rotating drums and soaking it in heated oils and waxes. This treatment fully impregnates the hide through its core with animal waxes and tallows, giving the leather a strong pull-up effect and distinctive properties. The leather is made from double croupons, the most stable and valuable section of cow hide. When prepared as roughout, the flesh side undergoes treatment with waxes and oils to create the exterior surface.

Roughout leather requires substantially less care than smooth-grain leather while maintaining its appearance over extended periods. For routine cleaning, use a stiff-bristle brush to remove dirt, dust, and debris, which also helps even out the nap and maintain a consistent texture. More stubborn dirt can be addressed with a wire brush, rubber cleaner bar, or damp cloth. If water cleaning proves necessary, gently wipe the surface with a dampened cloth.

When roughout leather becomes wet, allow it to air dry overnight at room temperature. Direct heat sources should be avoided during drying, as they can cause the leather to shrink. Unlike smooth-grain leather, roughout can endure long periods without conditioning treatment. The natural oils from feet provide sufficient moisture to the interior side. Apply leather conditioner only when the material shows signs of excessive dryness or cracking. Some owners prefer conditioning the interior of footwear rather than the exterior, as conditioning products may darken the leather's color.

Roughout leather develops character naturally through exposure to environmental elements, with dirt, oils, and weather contributing to its evolving appearance. The material darkens over time as air, light, skin oils, and environmental factors affect its surface. This aging process creates a rich color and distinctive patina, with lighter and darker areas developing based on wear patterns.

Natural vegetable-tanned leather responds to sun exposure similarly to skin, beginning with a tan that progresses from natural tones to pink and then reddish hues before continuing to darken. Daily handling, water exposure, and conditioning each contribute to the rustic appearance that develops over time. Exposure to denim and hand oils adds individual character to the patina. Ultraviolet rays naturally darken the leather, as do conditioning products applied to the surface. The combination of vegetable tanning and roughout construction creates leather that ages with minimal maintenance while developing unique visual character.