NINE dITCHES

KREOSOTE produces only 35 pairs of boots annually across all models, with made-to-measure construction that requires customers to provide detailed foot tracings and measurements. The NINE dITCHES has been offered in three distinct versions since its introduction in 2020, each maintaining the core design elements while introducing material and height variations.

The NINE dITCHES boot takes its name and design inspiration from Gabbard's family history. According to the design narrative, one of Gabbard's great uncles made a living throughout the 1940s traveling from town to town as a card shark, until he was found in a ditch with the Nine of Spades card in his front pocket. This personal folklore element reflects KREOSOTE's broader branding as "American Built Folklore Boots," established when Gabbard founded the company in 2015.

The Project K 2020 FOLKLORE series represents Gabbard's approach to combining personal and cultural storytelling with traditional bootmaking. Rather than creating reproductions of historical work boot styles, the NINE dITCHES interprets period construction techniques through contemporary custom bootmaking.

The NINE dITCHES has been released in three versions, each building upon the original 2020 design while introducing material and structural variations.

The original NINE dITCHES 2020 features Natural/Russet leather with hand-dyed treatment creating a Red Exterior, Red Interior, and Jet Black Walnut Dye Exterior Finish. The boot has a five-inch top height with eight Jet Black Brass Eyelets. Construction includes KREOSOTE's signature XXX Back-curve Heel Counters and full-grain flat cut seven-ounce leather laces.

The NINE dITCHES-FLESH 2023, designated as the second version, offers waxed or un-waxed leather options while maintaining the core construction specifications. This variation expands material choices while preserving the fundamental design elements established in the original release.

The NINE dITCHES-9 Viridian blueGreen 2024 represents the third version, distinguished by a nine-inch boot top compared to the original five-inch height. This variant provides waxed or un-waxed options in a distinctive blue-green roughout leather finish, marking a significant departure from the natural leather colorways of earlier versions.

All NINE dITCHES boots feature leather from Wickett and Craig Tannery of Curwensville, Pennsylvania, established in 1867. Gabbard specifies uncommonly used Harness Drum-dyed, full grain vegetable tanned hide, selected because it resembles leather used by German-American shoemakers throughout the Kentucky hill country in the 1930s. Wickett and Craig represents one of only two remaining vegetable tanneries in the United States, producing approximately 4.5 million feet of leather annually through a six-week vegetable tanning process.

The insole construction employs Leather 10-11 Iron with hand-cut Channel/Holdfast and hand in-seam stitched three-quarter inch 360 degree welt. A full-grain leather covered removable one-eighth inch Blue-cloud padded insert provides cushioning. The outsole receives one-row Gritzner hand-crank stitching, with 12 Iron half-soles cut deeply into the feather line edge at the waist to the breast of the heel.

The heel construction features beveled leather stacked one inch high with a uniquely straight cut and "Beveled Spoon Edge" finish. All edges receive Jet Black oiled dye treatment. Every aspect of the boot follows traditional European shoemakers methods rather than Goodyear welted machine production.

KREOSOTE builds all boots including the NINE dITCHES from customer-provided foot tracings and detailed measurements. Each last is modified using vegetable tanned leather added to accommodate the client's individual foot measurements, creating custom footwear rather than selecting from standard last sizes.

JD Gabbard operates the entire KREOSOTE production himself from an Airstream workshop in Missouri. After decades working as a fine art photographer, Gabbard learned boot repair at a Texas cobbler shop before developing skills in complete boot construction. Each pair of boots requires 50 hours or more of hand work to complete, with annual production limited to 35 pairs across all KREOSOTE models.

Hand welting represents a particularly labor-intensive aspect of construction. A holdfast channel is cut into the midsole of the boot and then hand stitched to the upper using tools Gabbard builds himself, including needles made from piano wire. No machine can replicate this hand welting process, requiring complete manual execution for each pair.

The made-to-measure approach requires customers to provide personal outlined foot tracings with width measurements. These specifications guide pattern creation specific to each customer's feet, contrasting with made-to-order systems using standard lasts. This bespoke construction provides individualized fit while demanding extensive individual work for each commission.

The NINE dITCHES is produced as a limited edition made-to-measure boot with a 48-month waiting list. Full payment is required at time of ordering, with boots available only by appointment through KREOSOTE's direct sales. The extended wait time reflects the limited production capacity inherent in one-person operations combined with customer interest in Gabbard's work.

KREOSOTE's growth has impacted production timelines across all models. Wait times have extended from initial months to the current 48-month period for new orders.