Leder Ogawa

Unlike traditional tanneries, Leder Ogawa operates as a specialized finisher, performing dyeing and finishing processes on shell cordovan "crusts" initially tanned by Shinki Hikaku. This collaboration between the two Japanese companies produces shell cordovan leather characterized by uniform color, exceptional depth, and transparency. The company's products are used in leather goods including heritage boots, shoes, wallets, and notebooks.

Leder Ogawa was established in 1971 when founder Saburo Ogawa made the decision to pursue his vision of creating ideal cordovan leather. Ogawa's fascination with cordovan began during his studies at Kyoto University, where he encountered a military officer wearing cordovan boots. The lustrous appearance of cordovan leather, distinct from cowhide or goat leather, captivated Ogawa and determined his lifelong career path.

Born in Kyoto in 1929, Saburo Ogawa developed an early interest in leather and pursued self-directed study in leatherworking, even auditing classes at Kyoto University's agricultural faculty. After learning dyeing techniques at Toshin and establishing his cordovan dyeing methodology, Ogawa founded his business as Ogawa Dying Factory, specializing exclusively in cordovan from the outset.

The company faced a significant setback in 1974 when an accidental fire destroyed the factory, resulting in the loss of all facilities and equipment. Ogawa rebuilt using bank financing and renamed the enterprise Leder Ogawa. After 20 years of operation, Ogawa achieved his goal of creating what he considered the ultimate cordovan with superior beauty and clarity. Following Saburo Ogawa's death in 2012, the company transitioned to third-generation management while maintaining the founder's technical innovations.

Leder Ogawa employs a specialized aniline dyeing process developed by founder Saburo Ogawa, representing the only technology of its kind in the world. The production begins with shell cordovan "crusts" from Shinki Hikaku, which Leder Ogawa then subjects to their proprietary finishing process.

The process requires careful pretreatment of the leather before dyeing, with production relying entirely on experience and intuition rather than standardized procedures. A special machine glazes the shaved leather to align cordovan fibers in a single direction through pressing, creating the foundation for the characteristic mirror-like surface finish.

Environmental control plays a critical role in production, with temperature and humidity conditions dictating the precise amounts of oil and water used in the daily production process. Each piece of glazed leather is dyed individually by hand, ensuring careful attention to color development and uniformity.

Following the dyeing process, the leather undergoes hydraulic pressing to achieve a smooth, flat surface. The final step involves waxing the cordovan with specialized wax to develop the characteristic shine. This combination of techniques produces what the company describes as cordovan with "captivating clarity" and transparency resembling crystal glass.

Leder Ogawa produces True Aniline Dye Cordovan exclusively, making it the only company in Japan to offer this specific product type. The finished leather represents nearly unfinished material, treated only with dyes, oil, and the glazing process without additional chemical treatments.

The aniline dyeing process enables the creation of bright, vibrant colors that other cordovan producers cannot match. Compared to Shinki Hikaku's cordovan, Leder Ogawa's finished products are less glossy but offer more uniform coloration with exceptional depth. The company produces cordovan in multiple colors including Natural, Green, Chocolate, Black, Camel, and Coffee Brown.

The source material for all production comes from European heavy stallions, with cordovan obtained exclusively from the limited buttocks region of these large horses. This anatomical restriction, combined with the specialized European horse breeds required, makes the raw material extremely rare from the initial acquisition stage.

Finished Leder Ogawa cordovan is used in the production of high-end leather goods, particularly heritage footwear, wallets, notebooks, and other personal accessories. The leather is distributed through specialized retailers worldwide, with some products available on a pre-order basis due to limited production capacity and material availability.

Leder Ogawa maintains a specialized partnership with Shinki Hikaku, a Kobe-based tannery established in 1951. This collaboration represents a division of labor in Japanese shell cordovan production, with Shinki Hikaku handling the initial tanning process and Leder Ogawa providing the specialized finishing work.

Shinki Hikaku supplies the shell cordovan "crusts" or unfinished shells that serve as the raw material for Leder Ogawa's aniline dyeing process. Both companies are recognized among the major shell cordovan producers globally, alongside Horween in the United States and Rocado in Italy.

This partnership combines Shinki Hikaku's traditional vegetable tanning expertise with Leder Ogawa's specialized finishing techniques. The collaboration utilizes 100% mimosa tannins in the initial processing, with Leder Ogawa applying their proprietary aniline dye technology to create the final products that are distributed internationally.