Cowboy Boots

Before the leather, before the stitching, before the finishing touches, construction begins with the last, the foundation of every boot. After the last is designed and built, patterns must be made for each size of boot to fit a variety of customers. The patternmaker must account for all variables in how the leather will stretch over the boot last.

Before placing a die to the leather, the cutting department searches for a pair of skins that match perfectly, a process which can sometimes take days for one pair of boots. Bootmakers must ensure the boots couple well together through precise grain alignment. A clicking machine applies at least 20 pounds of pressure on the die and leather to create an exact cut without fraying.

For exotic leather boots, two crocodilian skins are used to make one pair. To achieve a perfectly matched pair, bootmakers intently study each skin's unique markings, tile size, and pattern. At times, 20 to 30 different skins are compared side-by-side before finding a close enough match.

The boots are constructed inside out, with all stitching completed from the inside. Partway through assembly, they are pulled through to become right side out. Artisans expertly guide the needle through the leather by hand, creating stitch patterns that mark the company's craftsmanship. The lasting process involves wetting the upper with water, pulling it over the last, and tacking it securely to achieve the boots' characteristic fit.

The company uses both brass and lemonwood pegs to attach the outsole to the rest of the boot, depending on the style. Lemonwood pegs swell and contract at the same rate as leather, unlike metal nails which can be forced out by drastic temperature and humidity changes. Pegging maintains the integrity of the hand-lasted instep's fit and allows boots to be resoled when soles wear out. Each peg is carefully hammered into small holes cut into the leather of the outsole using this old-world bootmaking method.

Farm-raised American alligator undergoes a rigorous tanning process encompassing nearly 100 individual steps. The leather is known for its symmetrical tiles and possesses natural enamel that is glazed and glossed to achieve a finish without compromising softness or durability of the skin.

Smooth ostrich features a subtle texture with fibrous grain that becomes more unique when dyed or stained, showing high-low color variation. The texture gradient gradually deepens into pronounced quilling depending on the die cut.

Elephant leather is a rare material ethically sourced through regulated conservation efforts from natural mortality or population management programs. The leather is renowned for its deep, textured grain and strength, developing a unique patina over time.

Florence buffalo is the softest of the company's smooth leathers, described as luxurious in both fit and finish. As velvety as glove leather, it provides surprising durability appropriate for all occasions.

Sharkskin is nearly indestructible yet softer than expected. The sanded finish creates a more casual appearance than unsanded sharkskin, which retains natural luster and takes a shine. The exotic leather can withstand demands of hard work.