MakersU Mocca Blucher

U Mocca Blucher

Model

About

The U Mocca Blucher is a chip-type boot manufactured by Makers, a Japanese footwear brand. Designated as model CDVN-03, the boot features distinctive moccasin construction with folded and sewn leather, a specification considered rare in contemporary footwear. The design incorporates a tapered ankle area and uses GUIDI CALF leather from Italy. Available in Black and Burgundy colorways, the boot retails for ¥89,100 including tax.

Design and construction

The U Mocca Blucher employs moccasin construction characterized by folded and sewn leather, a technique that distinguishes it from standard blucher designs. The construction method requires the leather to be folded over itself and sewn, creating a continuous piece that wraps around the foot. This approach differs from conventional blucher construction where separate pieces are stitched together.

The boot features a chip-type design with a tapered ankle area. The blucher style utilizes an open lacing system, which distinguishes bluchers from Oxford shoes with their closed lacing. The blucher design was named after Prussian general Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher and was originally created for military footwear, featuring a roomier last to accommodate thick woolen socks.

Materials

The boot uses GUIDI CALF leather sourced from Italy. This leather exhibits a matte appearance with modest elasticity and luster, featuring a smooth silver surface with fine grain pattern. The material undergoes traditional Tuscan vegetable tannin tannage, a process developed by the GUIDI company founded in 1896 in Tuscany.

The full-grain leather retains natural characteristics and potential marks from the hide. The leather features a soft texture that improves with wear and develops patina over time. GUIDI's production process includes object-dyeing after assembly, which ensures uniform color throughout the entire boot structure rather than just the surface.

Historical context

The blucher moc style was first released in 1936 by Leon Leonwood Bean, founder of L.L. Bean. This design adapted the comfort of Native American moccasin construction for use in Maine's climate, combining the traditional moccasin upper with a more structured blucher lacing system.

The open lacing system that defines the blucher style was developed for practical military use. The design allowed for a roomier last and easier on-and-off access compared to closed lacing systems, making it suitable for extended wear with heavy socks in various weather conditions.

References

  • 1.

    "U MOCCA BLUCHER". Makers Official Website. Retrieved December 10, 2025.

  • 2.
  • 3.

    "Types of leather and basic Knowledge - GUIDI". Fascinate Online. Retrieved December 10, 2025.

  • 4.
  • 5.

    "Guidi's Legacy of Leathercraft". Form Space. Retrieved December 10, 2025.

  • 6.

    "An Introduction to the Blucher Moc: Multi-Season Versatility". Primer Magazine. Retrieved December 10, 2025.

  • 7.
  • 8.

    "Blücher - Classics". Ludwig Reiter Schuhmanufaktur. Retrieved December 10, 2025.

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