Monroe19927

19927

Model

About

The 19927 is a captoe brogue boot manufactured by Monroe Bootmaker Co., an Indonesian handmade bootmaker. The boot features 270-degree veldtschoen stitchdown construction and is built on the MB-03 last with a seven-inch height. The 19927 was sold exclusively through Baker's Boots as part of a collaboration between the retailer and Monroe, representing Monroe's first ready-to-wear full size run sold in the United States.

The boot was offered in two upper leather options: natural Maryam horsebutt and black Shinki Hikaku teacore horsehide. Both versions feature full lambskin lining with rolled edges and are finished with a Dr. Sole Black Raw Cord Half Sole and slight logger heels. The regular retail price was $599.95, with sale pricing at $499.95.

Construction

The 19927 uses 270-degree veldtschoen stitchdown construction, a method where the upper leather is turned outward and stitched above the welt. This construction technique originated in 17th century Cape Dutch South Africa and derives its name from Afrikaans and Dutch words meaning "field shoe." The veldtschoen method shares with sandals and moccasins the distinction of being among the world's oldest footwear construction techniques.

The waterproofing principle of veldtschoen construction involves the upper leather deflecting water away from the join where the upper meets the sole. The stitching that holds the upper to the welt and sole is clearly visible on the exterior of the boot. In a 270-degree configuration, a piece of leather called a rand is nailed over the heel counter and lining to create an even plane for the midsole and outsole attachment.

The construction method has been traditionally used for English country and hiking shoes due to its enhanced water resistance properties. However, the durability trade-off of this method is that the sole stitching goes through the upper leather itself, which limits the number of possible resoles compared to other welted construction methods.

Materials

The 19927 was offered with two upper leather options. The natural Maryam horsebutt leather is vegetable tanned using natural tannins from trees at the Maryam tannery in Santa Croce sull'Arno, Tuscany, Italy. This leather is an extremely dense fibrous material suitable for durable applications, with a thickness of 6oz (2.4mm) and a tolerance of ±0.3mm. The typical hide size is 18 to 20 square feet with a yield of 75 percent or higher. Visual characteristics of Maryam horsebutt include spider web veining, dark spots, scars, cuts, and faint stripes on the toe area, reflecting the centuries-old tanning knowledge and slow process maintained by the tannery.

The alternative upper option was black Shinki Hikaku teacore horsehide, a Japanese leather known for its color-changing properties through wear. Both versions feature full lambskin lining with rolled edges, providing a soft interior finish against the foot.

The outsole is the Dr. Sole #1092 Raw Cord Half Sole, which uses a nitrile rubber compound with pulverized hemp cord. The design draws inspiration from the cork soles of the U.S. Navy N-1 Field Boot used during World War II. The pulverized hemp cord embedded into the nitrile rubber compound provides enhanced durability, shock absorption, reduced weight, and improved traction. The sole component retails separately for $17.50 and is available in sizes 10, 12, and 14 millimeters.

Design and features

The 19927 is built on the MB-03 last with an unstructured toe and natural edge finishing. The boot stands seven inches tall and features a captoe brogue design with decorative perforations. The lacing system consists of six antique brass eyelets in the lower portion of the boot, transitioning to three speed hooks in the upper section for easier on and off. The hardware throughout maintains an antique brass finish for visual consistency.

The boot incorporates slight logger heels, a design element that provides additional height and a distinctive silhouette while maintaining stability. The unstructured toe allows the leather to conform more naturally to the foot shape over time, in contrast to boots with structured toe boxes that maintain a rigid shape.

Availability and pricing

The 19927 was sold exclusively through Baker's Boots as a collaboration between the retailer and Monroe Bootmakers Co. The regular retail price was $599.95, with sale pricing offered at $499.95, representing a $100 savings. All final few sales were designated as non-refundable. The product is no longer available, with the Baker's Boots product page returning a 404 error.

Sizing guidance provided by Baker's Boots recommended going up a half size from the 55 last. For example, customers who wore size 9.5 D on the 55 last were advised to order size 10 D in the 19927. Alternative sizing guidance for the Shinki Hikaku version suggested ordering according to Brannock size.

Monroe Bootmaker Co., also known as Monroe Heritage, is an Indonesian bootmaker using hand welted construction methods. The 19927 represented the company's first full-size ready-to-wear offering in the United States market.

References

  • 1.

    "19927 Natural Maryam Horsebutt". Baker's Boots. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Monroe Boot Co Collection". Baker's Boots. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 3.

    "What is Veldtschoen Construction?". Bradshaw & Lloyd. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 4.

    "What is Veldtschoen Construction?". Cheaney. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Maryam Horse Butts". Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 6.

    "Raw Cord Half Sole". Dr. Sole. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

  • 7.

    "Veldtschoen Construction". Courteney Boot Company. Retrieved December 20, 2025.

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