The 29917 is a handmade boot model produced by Monroe Heritage, an Indonesian custom bootmaker. The boot features Norwegian welt construction, Natural Chromexcel leather from Horween, Dr. Sole SuperGrip outsoles made in Taiwan, and lambskin lining. The model represents Monroe Heritage's approach to combining traditional handwelting techniques with materials sourced from international tanneries.
The 29917 employs Norwegian welt construction, also known as storm welt or waterproof welt. This construction method features two lines of stitching where the first fixes the upper to the insole and the second fixes the upper to the midsole. The Norwegian welt is completely exterior, with the stitching that connects the welt to the insole visible on the outside of the boot. This method prevents water from entering at the seam between the upper and welt. Norwegian welted construction has been historically used on ski boots and performance footwear requiring waterproofing. The construction creates products that are both strong and flexible while allowing the boots to be resoled.
The 29917 uses Natural Chromexcel leather from Horween Leather Company. Chromexcel is a combination-tanned leather that undergoes at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days and utilizing all five floors of Horween's facility. The leather is chrome-tanned for soft suppleness, then vegetable retanned to provide rigid temper and better patina development. A hot stuffing process impregnates the hides with oils, waxes, and greases including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax, creating the characteristic pull-up effect where oils and waxes disperse when the leather is pressed or pulled. Natural Chromexcel is a dye-free version that starts as a natural beige-tan color and develops rich brown tones over time through oxidation of the vegetable tanning agents. The leather receives several hand-rubbed coats of aniline finish followed by a final coat of Neatsfoot Oil.
The boot is fitted with Dr. Sole SuperGrip outsoles, precision-made in Taiwan. Dr. Sole was established as a Taiwanese solemaker, with founder Johnny beginning his career at age 16 as an apprentice at a rubber sole factory in Taipei. The SuperGrip rubber compound provides grip and comfort, with an oil-resisting compound and signature ice grip plugs on the full sole version. The company has developed innovative sole formulas incorporating ingredients like burlap or coffee grounds, with their designs and compounds adopted by brands from Viberg to Sagara.
The 29917 features lambskin lining. Lambskin leather is the hide of young sheep, characterized by softness, flexibility, and a smooth texture thinner than most leathers. The material is typically found in the one to three ounce thickness range and features small, tight grain patterns that give the leather a slightly rough texture. The soft and flexible nature of lambskin makes it suitable for footwear applications where comfort is prioritized.
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