Bidwell

Bidwell

Model

About

The Bidwell is a classic work-style boot manufactured by Parkhurst, drawing inspiration from traditional boot patterns. Available in original Bidwell and Bidwell 2.0 versions, the model features Goodyear welt construction and is built on the company's 602M last. The boot is offered in multiple leather options including rough-out, vegetable re-tan, and mahogany combinations.

Named after the LST ship number 602 that the founder's grandfather served on during World War II, the 602 last features a rounder forefoot design inspired by military footwear of that era. The boot combines heritage construction methods with modern manufacturing, with final assembly performed in Buffalo, New York, while primary manufacturing takes place in Spain and Portugal.

Design and construction

The Bidwell uses genuine vegetable tanned leather Goodyear welt construction, specifically employing a split reverse welt that provides enhanced water resistance. The construction includes a 3.5mm vegetable tanned bends leather insole tanned using oak tree bark oils, considered the industry standard for its moisture-wicking properties and conforming capabilities.

The boot features real cork filling with no synthetic fillers, rubbers, plastics, foams, or additives, measuring approximately 4mm thick to naturally conform to the wearer's foot. Vegetable tanned leather heel base and stacks are cut from the same bends leather used for the insoles, maintaining construction consistency throughout.

Interior components include half lining from the arch forward using thick vegetable tanned leather, with a partially gusseted tongue design. The build philosophy emphasizes natural breathability, shock absorption, and foot conformation using traditional techniques and materials, designed for long-term maintenance rather than disposal.

Leather options

The Bidwell 2.0 Dune Rough-out variant features full grain, full vegetable tanned rough-out upper leather, tanned with natural waxes and oils that develop patina over time while providing weather resistance. This leather maintains the natural surface texture and grain structure characteristic of rough-out processing.

The Bidwell Mahogany utilizes full grain upper leather that combines chrome and vegetable tanning processes, creating a reddish-brown colorway. This leather is hot stuffed with natural oils and waxes for water resistance and simplified cleaning and conditioning. The tanning process resembles that used for Chromexcel leather due to similar hot stuffing and combination tanning methods.

The Bidwell 2.0 Natural Veg Re-tan features full grain vegetable re-tan upper leather that develops patina and becomes darker over time while acquiring a subtle shine. Upper leather materials are sourced from renowned tanneries including Horween, Seidel, C.F. Stead, and Parkhurst's proprietary Spanish tannery leather, with typical weights starting around 5-6 ounces for aniline bovine leather.

Sizing and fit

The Bidwell is built on the 602M last, which features a slightly lower volume to provide a more comfortable snug fit and prevent heel slip while maintaining a rounder forefoot. The last includes a single E width toebox as measured on the Brannock device, combined with a tapered arch and snug heel design.

Parkhurst customers generally size down in the company's boots, typically up to one full size down from sneaker sizing. For the 602M last specifically, sizing recommendations suggest half a size down from Brannock measurement for D width feet, or a full size down for narrow or low volume feet. Wide width customers should select their normal wide width numerical size for E and EE widths, though EEE widths will not accommodate the last design.

Care and maintenance

Parkhurst Mahogany leather maintenance requires Smith's or Bick4 leather conditioners for optimal care. Waxed rough-out leather can be maintained using Smith's, Bick4, or any neutral color cream, wax, or balm products. Non-waxed and non-oiled rough-out leather should be spot cleaned with a damp cloth.

The Goodyear welt construction allows for resoling and extended boot life through professional cobbler services. This construction method enables ongoing maintenance rather than replacement, supporting the boot's design philosophy of longevity and repairability over disposal.

References

  • 1.

    "The Bidwell 2.0 - Dune Rough-out (602M)". Parkhurst Brand LLC. Retrieved September 1, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Craft and Build". Parkhurst Brand LLC. Retrieved September 1, 2025.

  • 3.
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