Rancourt & Co.

Rancourt & Co. serves both retail customers through their direct-to-consumer business and major brands through private-label manufacturing partnerships. The company has produced footwear for Ralph Lauren, Red Wing, and Timberland, including Olympic team footwear for the 2023 Paris Olympics. Their product line ranges from traditional camp moccasins and boat shoes to dress shoes and leather sneakers, with retail prices typically ranging from $288 to $478.

David Rancourt left his home in Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada in the early 1950s to learn the trade of shoemaking in Lewiston, Maine. By 1967, he had opened his own factory producing handmade moccasins. In 1970, his eldest son Michael joined the business, and together they expanded the operation from a small moccasin shop into a fully developed shoe factory producing luxury calfskin loafers for major brands.

The factory changed ownership in the 1990s, with Michael remaining as the operational lead. In 2008, when the owners announced plans to close the Lewiston operation, Michael and his son Kyle bought back the factory and launched Rancourt & Co. in 2009. This move preserved the Maine manufacturing tradition and allowed the family to maintain control over production methods that had been refined over three generations.

The 2009 founding represented a continuation rather than a new beginning, as the family maintained the same workforce, techniques, and commitment to handmade production that had characterized the operation for decades. Kyle Rancourt has noted that industry professionals recognize that "if they want shoes made in the U.S., Mike Rancourt should be your first call," reflecting the family's established reputation for American-made footwear production.

Rancourt & Co. operates exclusively from their factory in Lewiston, Maine, maintaining traditional handsewn moccasin construction techniques alongside modern Blake construction methods. The company's shoemakers, some with four decades of handsewing experience, shape and fit leather to lasts using hand tools in the same manner practiced for generations.

The genuine handsewn moccasin construction process involves hand-fitting leather to a shoe form called a last, then hand-stitching the leather with needles and waxed thread to create the moccasin upper. Workers use a sharp, needle-like tool called an awl to slice holes into the leather hide as it's being stitched on the last, rather than pre-punching holes. This traditional approach maintains the flexibility that moccasins were originally prized for and creates the characteristic crimped edge.

For their dress shoes and boots, Rancourt employs Blake construction, a method invented by American Lyman Reed Blake in the mid-1800s. This construction features a single row of stitching inside the upper that attaches the outsole, creating increased flexibility compared to Goodyear welted construction due to the absence of a rib attached to the innersole. The company also uses Blake welt construction, where a midsole is first attached to the upper, then an outsole is attached to the midsole with a welt stitching machine, providing additional comfort and durability.

Rancourt & Co. produces a comprehensive range of handmade footwear for both men and women. Their traditional moccasin line includes camp mocs such as the Gilman Camp-moc at $288 and ranger mocs including the Classic Ranger-moc at $288 and Baxter Ranger Moc at $338. The boat shoe collection features authentic details like non-marking boat soles with siping and thick, heavily waxed thread that ages with wear.

The company's dress shoe collection includes Oxford and Derby styles such as the Camden Derby at $398, Bartlett Oxford at $438, and Sanford Blucher at $438. Their loafer range features the Beefroll Penny Loafer and Pinch Penny Loafer, both priced at $328, along with the Belgrade Camp Loafer at $318. Boot options include the Byron Boot at $478, Harrison Boot Redux at $388, and Acadia Chukka Redux at $348.

The product line extends to leather sneakers, including the Court Classic 2.0 Low at $288, demonstrating the company's adaptation of traditional construction methods to contemporary styles. Women's footwear includes loafers ranging from $218 to $378, with options such as Horsebit Loafers at $378 and Pinch Penny Loafers at $328. The company also offers customizable details through their expanding in-house collection, allowing customers to specify materials, colors, and construction options.

Rancourt & Co. has established itself as a significant private-label manufacturer for major American brands while maintaining its direct-to-consumer business. The company has produced footwear for Ralph Lauren, Red Wing, and Timberland, leveraging their reputation for American-made construction and traditional techniques. These partnerships demonstrate the industry recognition of Rancourt's manufacturing capabilities and quality standards.

In 2023, Polo Ralph Lauren commissioned Rancourt to create a white buck suede design for the Paris Olympics, with all shoes handmade in the Lewiston factory. This high-profile partnership highlights the company's ability to meet demanding specifications for international sporting events while maintaining their traditional construction methods.

The company's private-label work spans multiple footwear categories, from luxury calfskin loafers to work boots, showcasing the versatility of their manufacturing capabilities. These partnerships provide production volume that supports the maintenance of traditional shoemaking skills and equipment while allowing Rancourt to invest in their direct-to-consumer offerings. The combination of private-label and retail business has enabled the company to maintain operations in Maine when many competitors have moved production overseas.