Combat Boots That Will Never See Combat

nikolanottesla17 days ago
Enzo Bonafe Military Derby BootHorween Black Shell Cordovan

Maker

Enzo Bonafe

Model

Military Derby Boot

Leather

Last

363MOD Last

US Men's Brannock: 10.5D

363MOD Last: 9.5

UK sizing.

Sole

Purchased from

Enzo Bonafe

Craftsmanship

Enzo Bonafe Military Derby Boot
Construction
Durability
Stitching

As I understand it, before his passing, Enzo himself lasted every pair of shell cordovan shoes/boots at the Bonafe workshop in Bologna. These were constructed during that era, and while I really love them, the craftsmanship leaves something to be desired... and it makes me lean toward never buying another pair of Bonafes. Within three months of receiving them, the welt on the right boot started separating from the upper, and I had to send them back to Italy. The repair was adequate, but it also left minor tearing on the interior lining that hadn't been there before. Nitpicky, maybe - but at this price point it feels pretty reasonable to expect a greater level of attention to detail. Since then, the same welt-separation issue has slowly started to develop on the other boot. The stockist I ordered through refused to raise it with Bonafe, insisting it wasn't a real problem...

Final thoughts

Other

I'm not sure I'd recommend Bonafe unless you're buying secondhand. And I absolutely would not recommend the stockist you have to go through to buy this model, Seamless Bespoke - their service was trash tier. These boots are gorgeous to look at, and I doubt I'll ever get rid of them. But I don't wear them particularly hard, and I still have the sinking feeling that the upper and welt on the left boot will come apart well before the sole wears down - at which point I'll be sending them to Unsung to be refurbished the way they should have left Bonafe's workshop in the first place. Add in the small nicks and scratches from production or repair work and we're no longer discussing the "quirks and charm" of something handmade: we're fully in the realm of shitty attention to detail. If I had to sum it up: I'm thrilled when these boots are on my feet, but this will almost certainly be my only pair of Enzo Bonafe footwear.

Written by nikolanottesla
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