Nicks Handmade Boots
Brakeman
Guilty Party
Cost: 739 USD
Availability: Collaboration
Lead Time: 5 days
After a couple of years of wearing Heritage style boots and building quite a sizable inventory, done a lot of research exploring Engineer style boots. Decided I liked the look and style of Wesco Mr. Lou's. Was not disappointed and ultimately bought 3 pairs in different leathers/colors. Was also convinced and appreciated the structure and build of PNW boots, so started looking into boots and styles from various PNW vendors like Nick's. Eventually decided I "needed" an Engineer style boot in a roughout leather, preferably a Natural CXL roughout. Being part of Nick's Reddit thread, saw an announcement of Guilty Party's collaboration of Nick's Brakeman Engineer in Brown CXL roughout. Did not hesitate and purchased immediately. Had previously bought a pair of Nick's Falcon in Tan Latigo that I was saving for the Thunderdome. Once I got these Engineers, decided to enter these in the event.
Per Nick's sizing chart, my size between lengths, 11 and 11.5 (EE width in 11 and E width in 11.5). Purchased an 11.5E width Falcon boot in the HNW last, which turned out to be a perfect fit. From my previous Chelsea and Engineer boot purchases, typically order either 1/2 size and/or one width less to ensure a snug fit. Did the same for these boots. Ordered an 11.5D, and it turns out this is a nice snug fit with little to no heel slip. Knowing CXL leathers are more forgiving, know these will form perfectly to my feet.
Bought online from Guilty Party the same day they announced the release of this collaboration.
While I don’t wear my boots "hard" in a construction or heavy-labor sense, these Nicks Brakemans have been my relentless daily drivers. For the past six months, they’ve seen the pavement 5 to 7 days a week. I work at home behind a computer screen but go for multiple daily walks with my dogs at the local park and the Greenspace trails behind my house averaging anywhere from 8,000 to 12,000 steps per day.
By letting the Brown CXL Roughout evolve naturally, the internal waxes did all the work. The constant friction of daily wear beneath jeans produced a desirable crocking effect, while the rest of the boot retained its rugged, matte texture. Without using cleaners or conditioners, the leather molded to my feet at its own pace, creating a fit that feels earned. It’s a testament to the fact that with a great last and quality hide, all you really need is a brush and some miles.
As my first Nicks engineer model, the 11.5D on the HNW last has matured into the absolute best fit in my fairly large engineer collection—secure, supportive, and perfectly proportioned. Normally wear 11.5E in other HNW lace-up boots but an 11.5D with the malleable CXL leather molded to my feet for a perfect fit.
Typical Nick's construction. Heavy, thick leather that requires a little bit of break in that transform to a comfortable, personalized fit. Small details like the brass buckles and rolled top using the smooth side brown CXL compliments the boot perfectly.
Don't know exactly what to say here. The V-bar sole provides solid slip resistance and has held up well walking in diverse environments. Not as soft as some other Vibram offerings but comfortable enough under foot. An appropriate sole for this style of boot.
Like the look of the logger heel and as other design elements of this boot, seems like an appropriate aesthetic for this model.
Watching these Brakeman boots transform over the last six months has been an enjoyable experience; the Brown CXL Roughout has transformed from a uniform nap to a rugged, high-contrast landscape of flattened fibers, visually appealing crocking and deep "tea-core" highlights. Documenting this journey for my first Patina Thunderdome has turned a simple pair of footwear into a living record.