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Carmelization Further Intensifies...

ShnyHntr914 months ago
Nicks Builder Pro, MTOHorween Natural Dublin
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Maker

Nicks

Model

Builder Pro, MTO

Leather

Horween Natural Dublin

Last

Thurman55 Last

US Men's Brannock: 10.5E

Thurman55 Last: 10E

None

The Thurman 55 last is exactly what i was looking for. I have some serious duck feet. ( Narrow in the heel with a really wide toe spread. ) The high arch from the 55 is a real back saver, and the Thurman toe allows my toes to roam where they naturally want to be. This is my last of choice from here on out.

Sole

Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Full Sole Honey

Heel

Classic, Dogger

Purchased from

Nicks Handmade Boots

More about this item

10 inch - Cut Top - Pull Loop - Brass Hooks and Eyes - Soft Toe - Beeswax Edge - Tan, Generation Laces.

Why I own this

Limited Release

I am a Journeyman Lineman by trade. I wanted to see the evolution of a vegetable tan boot such as Natural Dublin over the course of the dome. The Thurman 55 last works extremely well for my duck feet. Cut top on a 10 inch height has great ankle support and comfort in my line of work. The leather shank feels good and distributes my weight evenly while ascending, working, and descending wood poles when strapped into my climbing gaffs. I am excited to have this pair of Natty Dub beauties go through the challenge of the 24'-25' Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome.

How I sized

Thurman55 Last: 10EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5E
Brannock Measurements

I measured a half size down from brannock and came out with a 10.5 bumped down to a 10 Length. For width i measured with a taylors tape and cross referenced Nicks width sheet. I landed pretty firmly on an E width. The classic heel height and arch of the 55 last combined with the frontal toe space of the Thurman last is a godsend, that keeps me coming back to Nicks. This last works well for my duck feet. ( Wide forefront, more narrow heel )

Ordering process

Purchased from Nicks Handmade BootsTotal cost: 609 USD Lead time: About 2 months
Online Store

Nicks released 25 pairs of Natural Dublin over the summer in a MTO, Quickship. I ordered a pair when there were only 10 left. I recieved the pair about 2 months after ordering. The process was smooth as it could have been.

Use & wear

Physical Work
Outdoor Activities
Cold Temperatures
Wet Conditions
Snow
Extreme Conditions

January was brutally cold not only here in the Mid Atlantic but the whole eastern half of the country. The Natural Dublin took almost daily abuse of snow, sleet, mud, and road salt. On one occasion we set poles next to a farmers horse farm runoff ditch, M mmm good...

Leather

Horween Natural Dublin
Patina Process
Care Routine
Color Change

The Natural Dublin has been on going through what I refer to as a " carmelization " process high friction areas are burnishing quite well. A fee slices were opened wounds when new but have since gone to a much more scar like tissue. I brush dirt and debris off as needed and wipe of mud and clay wipe a damp rag. A final horse hair brushing moves the waxes and oils around enough to get it to shine until the next day.

Fit

Thurman55 Last: 10EUS Men's Brannock: 10.5E
Comfort
Arch
Toe Box
Instep
Heel
Socks
Added Insoles
Other
Length Feels Right
Volume Feels Right
Ball Feels Right
Satisfied with the Fit

The Thurman 55 last is still my go to favorite last snug in my heel and waist. Lots of lateral toe wiggle room. The 55 high arch provides comfort throughout the day and is complimented well by the Honey Vibram Outsole. A Buffalo Wool Company 4mm insert was added to try and combat the cold from weeks on end of below freezing temperatures. They are comfortable and aid in the sweat wicking properties of my Paul Bunyan, Darn Tough Merino Wool Socks.

Craftsmanship

Nicks Builder Pro, MTO
Design
Construction
Durability
Finishing
Stitching

Nicks is definitely my go to company so I may be a little biased but design, construction and finishing was right on track for what I'd expect from one of the legendary PNW boot maker's like Nicks. One notable improvement has been an improvement in Nicks stitch lines, which are cleaner than they were just a couple of years ago.

Sole & heel

Vibram 100 Montagna Lug Full Sole HoneyLess than a day, current sole
Durability
Traction
Comfort

The initial wear of the Honey Vibram heel caps was quite fast but it has since begun to wear more evenly. The softer compound seems to do a little better in the colder conditions adding slightly more grip in slick spots.

Classic, DoggerWorn for less than a day, current heel
Comfort
Design

The Classic Dogger i have found to be the most natural walking heel for myself personally. YMMV figuratively and literally.

Final thoughts

Other
Would Recommend
Good Value

This boot I feel has entered a stage of metamorphosis. I am highly anticipating the final product. All of my Nicks have aged in their own very unique way. These are no exception.

Written by ShnyHntr91
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