Gleaners Zip

Model

About

The Gleaners Zip is a side-zip heritage boot manufactured by Rolling Dub Trio, the Tokyo-based artisan bootmaker. Launched as part of the company's core lineup, the boot combines classic western styling with Japanese craftsmanship techniques and modern materials. The Gleaners Zip features a narrow silhouette and is constructed using traditional methods including hand-sewn direct welt construction and heavy-duty hardware designed for daily wear.

Built on Rolling Dub Trio's LC-01 last with a 270-degree flat welt, the Gleaners Zip uses Vibram #269 composite outsoles and Cat's Paw heel construction. The boot is available in multiple leather options including waxed box calf, natural roughout, and hand-dyed horsebutt, catering to heritage footwear enthusiasts seeking handcrafted alternatives to mass-produced boots.

Design and construction

The Gleaners Zip employs hand-sewn direct welt construction, connecting the upper directly to the midsole through a 270-degree flat welt configuration. This construction method, described as "very neat, flat and handsome," provides durability while maintaining a sleek profile suitable for various style contexts.

The boot features hand-thorn tailoring with wide edge width and double stitching for enhanced strength. Each pair incorporates an original Rolling Dub Trio zipper puller, designed to withstand daily use over extended periods. The shaft maintains a slim profile that sits close to the ankle, accommodating different pant leg profiles from slim to straight cuts.

Manufacturing takes place at "The Boots Factory," Rolling Dub Trio's Tokyo production facility, using small-batch production methods that emphasize quality control and attention to detail. The company produces boots using traditional old-world construction techniques combined with modern material innovations.

Materials

Upper leather options

The Gleaners Zip is available in multiple leather specifications to suit different preferences and wear contexts. The primary option features waxed box calf leather, treated for enhanced durability and a refined finish. Alternative configurations include natural roughout leather and hand-dyed horsebutt sourced from Italian suppliers.

Each leather option undergoes specific finishing processes designed to complement the boot's intended use profile. The waxed box calf provides weather resistance and develops patina over time, while the natural roughout offers a more casual appearance suitable for varied wearing conditions.

Sole and heel construction

The outsole utilizes Vibram #269 composite material rather than traditional leather, emphasizing durability, water resistance, and comfort for extended wear. The Vibram #269 is characterized as a low-profile rubber sole that maintains aesthetic appeal without heavy lugging typically associated with work boots.

Heel construction incorporates Cat's Paw components, a heritage sole brand absorbed by Vibram in the 1960s. The heel features leather stacking over a gloss black hand-painted midsole, providing both functional support and visual contrast. The heel measures 28mm in height, contributing to the boot's overall proportions.

Fit and sizing

The Gleaners Zip is constructed on Rolling Dub Trio's LC-01 last, designed with an E width that fits similarly to a standard D width in the midfoot area. Sizing recommendations vary between sources, with most retailers suggesting customers size down one-half to one full size from their typical sneaker size.

The boot's fit characteristics accommodate typical East Asian foot shapes, featuring a flatter profile with less pronounced arch support compared to American-made heritage boots. The shape is described as longer, rounder, and narrower than most American work boot lasts, reflecting Japanese design preferences and manufacturing traditions.

Availability and pricing

Rolling Dub Trio introduced the Gleaners Zip as part of their core model lineup, with availability primarily through authorized retailers in the United States and internationally. ButterScotch served as the first US retailer to carry Rolling Dub Trio products beginning in 2018, establishing the brand's American market presence.

Pricing for new pairs was approximately $875 in 2022 pre-order configurations, though current retail pricing varies by leather option and retailer. Secondary market prices range from $615 to over $1,300 depending on condition, leather type, and availability of specific configurations.

International availability includes retailers in the United Kingdom through East West Apparel and other European markets, reflecting the brand's expansion beyond its Japanese origins. Some configurations are produced as retailer exclusives, such as the natural roughout version available exclusively through ButterScotch.