S.B. Foot Black Cherry Excalibur

The leather is treated with Wet Stuff Retain, a moisture-retention process that enhances water resistance and suppleness while creating a medium to bright luster with a slight waxy feeling. Black Cherry Excalibur's full-grain surface allows the leather to develop a complex patina over time, with the color deepening and revealing lighter tones in areas of stress and flexion.

Black Cherry Excalibur shares the fundamental characteristics of the Excalibur leather line while presenting a distinctive color profile. The leather is manufactured using an oil-tanning process that produces full-grain leather with a firm temper. Typical thickness measures 5-6 ounces, positioning it as a medium-weight leather suitable for footwear construction and leather goods.

The oil-tanning process begins with chrome tanning, after which the hides are packed with oil and wax, creating a semi-soft and semi-flexible temper. This process increases durability and adds water-resistant properties while contributing to the leather's distinctive rustic appearance. The hot oil bath creates a protective coating that makes the leather softer to the touch while maintaining structural integrity.

The semi-aniline finish provides a protective layer while preserving the natural grain patterns of the hide. This finishing technique allows the leather to develop patina while offering more protection than pure aniline leather. The finish is applied to achieve a medium to bright luster that can be maintained and enhanced through polishing.

One of the defining characteristics shared across the Excalibur line is the pullup effect, where the leather lightens in color when bent or stretched due to oil redistribution within the leather. In Black Cherry Excalibur, this effect is particularly dramatic, revealing lighter burgundy and reddish tones against the dark base color. This visual effect becomes more pronounced with use and is considered desirable by leather goods enthusiasts.

Black Cherry Excalibur presents a dark burgundy-brown hue when new, sitting at the darker end of the brown-red spectrum. The color is achieved through dye application during the finishing process, with the semi-aniline finish allowing the underlying full-grain texture to remain visible while providing color depth.

The leather's break-in period reveals what S.B. Foot describes as "a beautiful casting of the undertones." As the leather flexes and conforms to use, lighter red and burgundy tones emerge, particularly in high-stress areas such as the vamp and ankle collar of boots. The full-grain surface allows these color variations to become more pronounced over time, creating a distinctive visual character.

The oil-tanned nature of Black Cherry Excalibur promotes patina development through regular wear. The leather's surface becomes smoother with handling, while the color deepens and develops complexity in frequently contacted areas. Areas subject to sunlight exposure may lighten slightly, creating natural highlighting that contrasts with the darker base color. The polishable finish allows owners to maintain or enhance the leather's appearance through conditioning and polishing, which can darken the leather and increase its luster.

Unlike some lighter-colored leathers where aging creates darker patina, Black Cherry Excalibur's aging process emphasizes the revelation of lighter undertones through the pullup effect while simultaneously deepening the color in handled areas. This dual aging characteristic creates a complex visual evolution that appeals to enthusiasts who value visible leather aging.

Black Cherry Excalibur's primary application is in Red Wing Heritage footwear, where it appears in several classic styles. The most prominent use is in the 6-inch Classic Moc (style 8847), one of Red Wing's signature silhouettes. The leather is also used in the Beckman 6-inch Boot (style 9419), demonstrating its versatility across different heritage boot constructions.

The leather is selected for these heritage applications due to its balance of durability and comfort. It offers a softer break-in experience compared to more rigid leathers while maintaining sufficient structure for footwear applications. The 5-6 ounce weight provides adequate protection and longevity without excessive stiffness, contributing to the comfort characteristics associated with Red Wing Heritage products.

The Goodyear welt construction used in Red Wing Heritage boots made with Black Cherry Excalibur allows for resoling, extending the functional life of footwear made with this leather. This construction method, combined with the leather's durability, contributes to the long service life associated with Red Wing Heritage products. The leather's ability to develop patina over extended periods aligns with the philosophy of heritage footwear designed for decades of wear.

Beyond Red Wing's own production, Excalibur leather in Black Cherry is available to leatherworkers through authorized distributors, though availability may vary by color. When available, the leather's characteristics make it suitable for various leather goods including belts, bags, wallets, and other accessories where full-grain oil-tanned leather is appropriate.

As an oil-tanned leather with a polishable finish, Black Cherry Excalibur responds well to regular conditioning with leather care products designed for oil-tanned leathers. Red Wing recommends cleaning with warm water and a brush for routine maintenance, or using foam leather cleaner for heavily soiled areas. The Wet Stuff Retain treatment provides inherent water resistance, though the leather benefits from periodic application of conditioning oils or creams to maintain suppleness.

For conditioning, Red Wing recommends several products suitable for Black Cherry Excalibur: All Natural Boot Oil, Mink Oil, or All Natural Leather Conditioner. These products should be applied in a light, even coat to avoid oversaturation. Conditioning every three to six months, or more frequently with heavy use, helps preserve the leather's characteristics and promotes even patina development. Over-conditioning can darken the leather excessively and affect its color balance.

Polishing Black Cherry Excalibur can enhance its luster and provide additional protection to the surface. The semi-aniline finish accepts polish readily, allowing users to restore or increase shine as desired. Areas that develop scuffs or scratches can often be improved through conditioning and polishing, as the oils in the leather help minimize the appearance of minor surface damage. Light brushing with a horsehair brush before conditioning helps remove surface dirt and prepares the leather for treatment.

The leather should be allowed to dry naturally if exposed to significant moisture, avoiding direct heat sources that could cause the leather to dry out or crack. Once dried, reconditioning helps restore oils that may have been displaced by water exposure. For footwear, cedar shoe trees help maintain shape during the drying process and absorb residual moisture.

Red Wing also recommends lightly misting with Leather Protector to shield against dirt and moisture, providing an additional barrier against environmental exposure. This treatment is particularly useful for boots that will see regular outdoor use or exposure to inclement weather.

S.B. Foot Tanning Company, a wholly owned subsidiary of Red Wing Shoes Company, manufactures Black Cherry Excalibur at its Red Wing, Minnesota facility. The tannery has supplied leather to Red Wing's shoe manufacturing plants for over a century, developing proprietary leather formulations and color variations specifically for Red Wing's heritage and work boot lines.

Black Cherry Excalibur is produced as part of S.B. Foot's Excalibur leather collection, which includes other colorways such as Cigar and Black. The production process combines traditional tanning techniques with modern quality control processes. Hides are sourced as a natural by-product of the American food industry, primarily from steer hides. After tanning, hides are graded according to quality standards, with various grades available depending on the intended application.

The leather is sold both directly to Red Wing's manufacturing operations and through authorized leather suppliers to independent leatherworkers. However, as with many S.B. Foot leathers, availability to the broader leatherworking community may be limited or subject to minimum order requirements. The Black Cherry colorway in particular may be produced primarily for Red Wing's internal use, with limited availability through retail leather suppliers.

This limited availability, combined with the leather's distinctive characteristics and association with Red Wing Heritage products, contributes to its desirability among boot enthusiasts and leatherworkers seeking authentic Red Wing-quality materials for custom projects.