S.B. Foot Mohave

Mohave distinguishes itself from suede through its construction method, which preserves the full thickness and grain structure of the hide rather than splitting it. The leather receives a buffed surface treatment to achieve its characteristic smooth, consistent texture while retaining water-resistant properties throughout its cross-section. S.B. Foot positions Mohave within its roughout leather category alongside Acampo and Muleskinner, though Mohave specifically emphasizes waterproof performance for outdoor and field applications.

S.B. Foot produces Mohave using chrome-tanned steerhide with the flesh side of the leather forming the exterior surface. This roughout construction method uses the reverse side of a full-grain leather hide while keeping the grain structure intact and uncompromised. Unlike suede, which splits the hide to create a thinner material, roughout leather maintains the full substance and durability of the original hide by preserving the dense grain structure on the interior.

The manufacturing process includes buffing the flesh side to achieve the desired surface texture and consistency. This buffing creates a smooth, even surface that resembles nubuck but retains greater thickness and structural integrity. The leather undergoes treatment with waterproofing compounds that penetrate throughout the cross-section, providing moisture resistance rather than surface-only protection. The grain side, though not exposed during wear, remains intact and provides structural reinforcement and a natural barrier against environmental elements.

S.B. Foot produces Mohave in standard weights of 2.5 to 3.0 ounces for general leather goods applications, with heavier options of 3 to 4 ounces and 5 to 6 ounces available for footwear and outdoor equipment. The company applies medium temper to the leather, balancing flexibility with structural stability. Commercial grades include A quality leather with light range markings and minimal imperfections, and B quality with more substantial markings and potential color variations, both meeting functional performance standards.

Mohave exhibits several distinctive properties that differentiate it from other roughout and suede leathers. The chrome tanning process creates a flexible, water-resistant base material that accepts waterproofing treatments effectively. The buffed flesh side presents a smooth, consistent texture with a fine nap that ranges from a tightly packed, velvety feel to a slightly rougher appearance depending on the finishing treatment applied.

The leather demonstrates high water resistance due to waterproofing compounds integrated throughout its structure rather than applied only to the surface. This through-body treatment allows moisture to bead and shed from the surface while preventing penetration into the leather fibers. The material exhibits superior stain resistance compared to smooth-finished leathers, as the roughout surface texture helps conceal marks and discoloration that would appear prominently on grain-side leather.

Mohave leather provides natural resistance to scuffs and scratches because the flesh side tolerates abrasion better than smooth grain surfaces. The protected grain layer on the interior serves as a moisture barrier and maintains the structural integrity of the leather over extended use. The material requires less maintenance than smooth-finished leathers since the texture helps hide signs of wear and the waterproof treatment reduces the need for frequent conditioning.

The leather develops character and visual depth through use and age, with high-wear areas becoming burnished and developing subtle shading variations. The nap may compress in frequently flexed areas while maintaining its original texture in less-stressed sections, creating a natural patina that reflects the wear patterns of the item.

Red Wing Heritage incorporates Mohave leather into several boot models within its heritage collection. The Classic Moc style 8881, based on the original 1952 design for sportsmen, uses olive Mohave leather as a signature material. The boot features the characteristic moc toe construction with white Traction Tred wedge sole and Goodyear welt construction. The Merchant boot style 8062 employs olive Mohave in a design based on 1920s work boots, featuring a cap toe without reinforcement for improved comfort and a leather heel and sole construction.

Leather crafters and manufacturers use Mohave for various leather goods applications beyond footwear. The 2.5 to 3.0 ounce weight suits padded or layered watch straps, wallet construction for both exteriors and interiors, and bag or duffel interior lining. The material works effectively for protective cases for electronics or eyewear, providing cushioning and moisture resistance. Heavier weights in the 5 to 6 ounce range accommodate boots, outdoor gear, and equipment designed for wet climates or field conditions.

The water-resistant properties make Mohave suitable for outdoor applications where exposure to moisture occurs regularly. Hunting and hiking gear, work boots for agricultural or construction environments, and accessories used in marine or wet weather contexts benefit from the leather's resistance to water penetration and staining. The leather can be split to thinner weights for use as lining material in boots or bags, maintaining water resistance while adding minimal bulk.

S.B. Foot produces Mohave in three documented color options, each offering distinct visual characteristics suited to different applications and aesthetic preferences.

Olive represents the most prominent color in the Mohave range and serves as the signature leather for Red Wing Heritage models. The color presents a muted green-brown tone with military heritage associations. Red Wing describes olive Mohave as a reversed suede leather with a characteristic rough touch that improves with age and use. The color became closely associated with heritage work boot styling and outdoor footwear aesthetics.

Desert Sand offers a neutral, light tan color with consistent shading throughout the hide. Retailers describe the color as resembling the dash and headliner leather found in luxury automobiles, suggesting a refined, even appearance. The neutral tone suits applications where a lighter color palette is desired while maintaining the technical performance characteristics of Mohave leather.

Coyote presents an army green-tan color that bridges olive and desert sand in the color spectrum. The military-inspired designation reflects the color's origins in tactical and field equipment applications. Coyote Mohave maintains the same water-resistant properties and roughout construction as other color options while offering a versatile mid-tone color suitable for outdoor gear and tactical applications.

Mohave leather requires minimal routine maintenance compared to smooth-finished leathers due to its roughout construction and integrated waterproofing. The flesh-side surface naturally resists showing scuffs, scratches, and stains that would appear prominently on grain leather. Regular brushing with a suede or nubuck brush removes surface dirt and restores the nap texture after compression from wear.

For deeper cleaning, manufacturers recommend using a damp cloth or specialized suede cleaner appropriate for roughout leather. The waterproof nature of Mohave allows for more aggressive cleaning than standard suede, though excessive saturation should be avoided. After cleaning, allowing the leather to air dry naturally maintains its texture and water-resistant properties. Aggressive heat sources during drying can damage the leather fibers and compromise waterproofing.

Periodic application of waterproofing products designed for roughout or suede leathers maintains the moisture resistance over time. Products should be applied according to manufacturer instructions, typically as a spray or foam that penetrates the nap without creating a surface coating that could alter the texture. Testing products on a small, inconspicuous area verifies compatibility before treating the entire surface.

The leather's natural tendency to develop character through use means that some color variation and texture changes represent normal wear rather than damage requiring correction. High-flex areas may become darker or more burnished than other sections, creating a patina that reflects use patterns. This aging process enhances rather than diminishes the aesthetic value of Mohave leather in most applications.