S.B. Foot Mohave Roughout

Mohave Roughout undergoes chrome tanning at S.B. Foot's Red Wing facility, resulting in a medium temper leather with a weight of 2.5 to 3.0 ounces. Following the tanning process, the grain side is buffed through controlled sanding, creating a texture that falls between traditional roughout and nubuck leather. This buffing process enhances the leather's ability to resist water and stains while maintaining a smooth, consistent surface texture.

The tanning process involves flipping the hide to maintain the heavy grain leather structure while applying proprietary tanning processes developed by S.B. Foot over its 150-year history. Unlike conventional tanneries that split and thin hides, S.B. Foot preserves the full thickness and structural integrity of the leather, contributing to Mohave's exceptional durability and waterproof characteristics.

Mohave utilizes the reverse side of a full-grain leather hide, leaving the internal structure intact while exposing the fuzzy inner surface. This roughout construction method provides inherent advantages for water resistance, as the exposed flesh side naturally resists water penetration more effectively than smooth-finished leather surfaces. The sanding process enhances this texture while retaining the full grain characteristics that ensure long-term durability.

The grading process for Mohave leather evaluates quality from the smooth grain side, even though the leather is finished as a roughout. This approach ensures that the underlying leather structure meets S.B. Foot's quality standards, with the roughout side typically exhibiting better visual quality than the graded smooth side would suggest.

Mohave's waterproofing extends throughout the cross-section of the leather rather than relying solely on surface treatments. This comprehensive waterproofing approach, described as particularly difficult to achieve by S.B. Foot, ensures moisture resistance remains effective even as the leather ages and develops wear patterns. The combination of chrome tanning, specialized buffing, and roughout construction creates multiple barriers against water penetration.

The leather's superior stain resistance complements its waterproof properties, making it suitable for extended use in field conditions where exposure to mud, dirt, and moisture is unavoidable. Unlike smooth-finished leathers that show water spots and staining prominently, Mohave's textured surface masks minor soiling while resisting permanent discoloration.

Mohave presents a suede-like texture that maintains consistency across the hide, with the buffed surface providing visual interest and character. The leather's appearance evolves with wear, developing a patina that reflects the user's activities while retaining its fundamental water-resistant properties. The medium temper provides flexibility for footwear applications while maintaining sufficient structure for long-term shape retention.

The buffed grain creates a surface that resists showing scuffs and scratches as prominently as smooth-finished leathers. This characteristic, combined with the natural texture variations inherent in roughout construction, contributes to Mohave's appeal for heritage footwear applications where a rugged, lived-in appearance is desirable.

Red Wing Heritage features Mohave Roughout prominently in multiple boot styles, including the Classic Moc 8881 and Chelsea 3457. The Classic Moc 8881, produced since 1952, utilizes Olive Mohave leather with Goodyear welt construction and a Traction Tred outsole, creating a heritage work boot suitable for both field use and casual wear. The boot's No. 23 last, developed in the 1950s, provides extra room in the forefoot and instep to accommodate the leather's characteristics.

The Chelsea 3457 women's boot combines Mohave Roughout with a Vibram mini-lug outsole and three-quarter Goodyear welt construction. The boot's side goring allows for easy wear while maintaining water resistance through the welted construction method. Both styles retail for approximately $320 and are manufactured in the United States using leather supplied by S.B. Foot Tanning Company.

The United States Military employs Mohave Roughout in various footwear applications, capitalizing on the leather's waterproof properties and durability in harsh field conditions. The leather's ability to withstand extended exposure to moisture, combined with its resistance to abrasion and tearing, makes it suitable for tactical and combat footwear where equipment reliability is essential.

S.B. Foot's production of military leather, including Mohave, represents a significant portion of the tannery's annual output, with over 1.5 million linear feet supplied for military footwear production. The leather's performance in demanding military applications validates its suitability for civilian heritage footwear, where similar durability and weather resistance enhance the boot's functional capabilities.

Mohave Roughout requires cleaning with specialized tools designed for roughout and nubuck leathers. An eraser bar removes surface soiling and light stains through gentle abrasion, with the option to dampen the bar for more persistent marks. Following cleaning, a bristle brush restores the leather's nap, maintaining the consistent texture that characterizes Mohave's appearance.

Regular brushing removes loose dirt and debris before it can become embedded in the leather's texture. This preventive maintenance extends the time between deep cleaning sessions and preserves the leather's water-resistant properties by preventing dirt accumulation that can compromise the surface treatment.

Mohave Roughout does not require regular conditioning, as the leather's chrome tanning and oil content remain stable without additional treatments. Applying mink oil is possible but will darken the leather permanently, a consideration for users who prefer to maintain the original color. A leather protector spray provides additional defense against water and staining without altering the leather's appearance or texture.

The protector spray should be applied in a sweeping motion from six to eight inches away from the leather surface, creating an even coating that enhances the existing water resistance. This treatment supplements Mohave's inherent waterproofing without creating a heavy buildup that could affect the leather's breathability or texture.

Muleskinner roughout features a burnished appearance with visual texture achieved through specific finishing techniques. Unlike Mohave's focus on waterproofing, Muleskinner emphasizes aesthetic qualities and accepts conditioning treatments, including mink oil application. Muleskinner contains more oil and wax in its treatment, creating a different hand feel and appearance compared to Mohave's suede-like texture.

Acampo roughout uses a specialized soft retan formula with added oils for toughness and durability while maintaining a particularly soft hand feel. Acampo's buffing and splitting process creates a smooth, consistent suede effect that differs from Mohave's more textured appearance. While both leathers serve roughout applications, Acampo prioritizes softness and flexibility over Mohave's emphasis on maximum waterproofing.