S.B. Foot Sequoia

The leather represents an effort to recreate the historical tanning methods that gave the original Irish Setter boots their distinctive color while adhering to modern environmental practices. Red Wing utilized vintage equipment and enlisted retired workers to develop a tanning process that could reproduce the golden-russet tones characteristic of the mid-century leather.

The origins of Sequoia leather trace back to 1950 when Red Wing Shoe Company created Style No. 954, a boot designed specifically for sportsmen. This boot featured leather tanned with the bark of sequoia trees, which produced a distinctive deep reddish-orange color designated as "Oro Russet." The coloration so closely resembled the coat of Irish Setter hunting dogs that the boot received the name "Irish Setter" in the 1950 catalog.

The original Oro Russet leather underwent a six-month tanning process using bark tannins sourced from Californian sequoia trees. This traditional vegetable tanning method created the lighter golden hues that characterized the early Irish Setter boots. The historical tanning process represented a period when American tanneries commonly employed tree bark as a primary tanning agent, producing leather with natural color variations and distinct aging characteristics.

Gold Russet Sequoia emerged decades later as a limited-edition recreation aimed at honoring this historical tanning heritage. The modern version sought to capture the aesthetic qualities of the original 1950s leather while incorporating contemporary environmental standards and production techniques.

Gold Russet Sequoia exhibits the properties typical of full-grain oil-tanned leather combined with the distinctive coloration derived from sequoia bark tannins. The leather displays a deep reddish-orange base color designed to emulate the lighter golden hues of the original mid-century Oro Russet leather. The natural tanning process creates color variations throughout individual hides, contributing to the leather's distinctive appearance.

As an oil-tanned leather, Sequoia contains oils that provide natural water resistance and durability. The full-grain construction preserves the hide's natural surface, maintaining the leather's inherent strength and allowing it to develop a patina through wear. High-contact areas gradually burnish, while the leather's color evolves with exposure to light, oils from handling, and environmental conditions.

The leather maintains the breathability characteristic of full-grain construction while offering protection against moisture. The oil content in the tanning process contributes to the leather's suppleness and helps prevent drying and cracking over time.

S.B. Foot Tanning Company produces Sequoia leather using its traditional drum tanning processes developed over 150 years of operation. The manufacturing process employs tannins extracted from sequoia tree bark as a primary tanning agent, distinguishing this leather from modern chrome-tanned or synthetic-tanned alternatives.

The tanning process begins with prepared hides that undergo soaking in massive wooden drums measuring up to 40 feet in diameter. During the soaking phase, hides receive treatment with tree oils, tanning agents including the sequoia bark extract, and dyes that work to penetrate the leather fibers. The extended soaking period allows these materials to thoroughly permeate the hide, ensuring color consistency and proper tanning throughout the leather's thickness.

The complete tanning process requires two to five weeks with over 50 people involved in various production stages. Following the initial tanning and soaking, hides undergo rolling, drying, and stretching operations that prepare the leather for finishing. S.B. Foot's traditional methods emphasize manual processes and detail-oriented techniques, maintaining production practices that date back to the tannery's founding in 1872.

The limited-edition nature of Gold Russet Sequoia involved resurrecting historical tanning knowledge and utilizing vintage equipment at the Red Wing facility. This production approach required consultation with retired workers who possessed experience with older tanning methods and materials.

Gold Russet Sequoia leather maintenance follows the care protocols established for oil-tanned leathers. Regular cleaning involves removing surface dirt with warm water and a brush, followed by drying with a cloth. For heavily-soiled areas, Foam Leather Cleaner can be applied with a cloth or brush, then wiped away with a damp cloth before allowing the leather to dry completely.

Conditioning maintains the leather's oil content and prevents excessive drying. A light, even coat of All Natural Boot Oil, Mink Oil, or All Natural Leather Conditioner should be applied with fingers, cloth, or sponge when the leather shows signs of dryness. Red Wing's All Natural Leather Conditioner is specifically recommended for this leather type, though users should note that conditioning products may initially darken the leather.

For protection against dirt and moisture, Leather Protector spray can be lightly misted onto the footwear from six to eight inches away in sweeping motions. This protective treatment helps guard the leather surface without significantly altering the color or finish.

Regular conditioning and protection help preserve the leather's distinctive color and maintain its suppleness over time. The leather's natural aging process will continue despite proper care, with the color gradually developing deeper tones and burnished areas through regular wear.

Red Wing Heritage incorporated Gold Russet Sequoia leather into two limited-edition Irish Setter boot models released in Fall 2017. The Model 9875 Irish Setter 6-inch Moc Toe boot features Gold Russet Sequoia leather throughout its upper construction. This style utilizes Goodyear Welt construction with a Traction Tred outsole, triple stitch detail, and leather laces.

The Model 9866 Irish Setter Pecos represents the second application of this leather. This 9-inch pull-on boot design draws inspiration from the original 1960s Red Wing Pecos style, combining elements from two historical Red Wing boot patterns. The construction features an all-around Goodyear Welt and Traction Tred outsole, maintaining the traditional western work boot aesthetic.

Both styles were produced as limited editions, making them available only during the specific seasonal release period. The limited production run and subsequent discontinuation have resulted in these boots no longer being available through regular Red Wing Heritage retail channels. The boots were manufactured using vintage equipment at Red Wing's Minnesota facility, contributing to their status as tribute pieces honoring the brand's historical footwear designs.