S.B. Foot Brick Settler

Leather Color

About

Brick Settler is a color variation of Settler leather, a smooth-finished full-grain material produced by S.B. Foot Tanning Company in Red Wing, Minnesota. The leather features a distinctive brick red-brown tone achieved through the same oil and wax treatment process used for all Settler variations, with color depth derived from natural tanning rather than surface pigmentation. As a 100% natural pull-up leather without added pigments, Brick Settler displays the inherent characteristics of premium full-grain leather, including natural beauty marks, grain variations, and color depth that develop personalized patina through extended wear.

The leather has appeared in limited Red Wing Heritage releases, most notably the Beckman 9022 and Work Oxford 8052 models. Both applications utilize the leather's smooth, polishable finish and distinctive brick coloration to create heritage footwear that bridges traditional work boot construction with refined aesthetic characteristics. The oil and wax treatment provides water resistance and durability while allowing the leather to develop rich patina that deepens the brick tone and enhances natural grain character over time.

Characteristics

Brick Settler exhibits the fundamental characteristics of the Settler leather family while presenting a distinctive brick red-brown coloration that distinguishes it from other Settler variations including Walnut, White Ash, and Burgundy. As a full-grain leather, the material maintains the complete natural grain surface without correction or buffing, preserving all natural beauty marks including scars, scratches, fat wrinkles, and grain variations that contribute to each hide's unique character.

The leather's defining treatment combines oil tanning with wax application during finishing, creating the smooth, slightly waxy surface feel characteristic of all Settler leathers. This treatment produces pull-up characteristics where stretching or bending reveals lighter tones beneath the surface, with the effect particularly visible at creases, folds, and high-flex areas. In Brick Settler, this pull-up effect creates subtle color variation within the brick tone range, emphasizing the leather's organic structure through natural use patterns.

The brick coloration results from the oil-tanning process rather than surface pigmentation, allowing color to penetrate fully through the leather thickness. This full-thickness coloration helps conceal future scuffs and maintains consistent color appearance as the leather breaks in, with the brick tone deepening through wear rather than fading or wearing away. The smooth finish allows regular polishing with boot cream, developing a radiant appearance that enhances the leather's natural luster and color depth.

The combination of heavyweight full-grain construction, oil and wax treatment, and natural brick coloration creates a leather suitable for heritage footwear applications requiring both substantial protective properties and refined aesthetic characteristics. The material's ability to develop personalized patina while maintaining polished appearance makes it appropriate for boots designed for long-term ownership across both rugged and refined wearing contexts.

Applications

Brick Settler leather has appeared in two documented Red Wing Heritage models, both utilizing the leather's distinctive coloration and smooth finish characteristics in heritage boot and shoe constructions built on last No. 8.

The Beckman 9022 represents the primary boot application of Brick Settler leather, featuring the color in the 6-inch round toe Beckman silhouette. Built on Red Wing's last No. 8, the same last used for the Iron Ranger and Beckman line, the 9022 combines Brick Settler with Goodyear welt construction and traditional Beckman design elements. Originally released as a Japanese exclusive, the 9022 exemplifies Red Wing's approach to regional market offerings, with distinctive leather colorways developed for specific markets while maintaining consistent construction standards. The boot is now discontinued, with examples primarily available through secondary markets and collector channels.

The Work Oxford 8052 features Brick Settler leather in a low-top heritage work shoe construction inspired by the first classic oxford style Red Wing designed in the 1950s. Originally advertised as "a shoe for work and play" combining casual styling with sturdy durability, the Work Oxford design translates well to Brick Settler's polishable dress-casual aesthetic. The 8052 is built on last No. 8 with a Nitrile Cork outsole, matching the construction approach used in the Beckman and Iron Ranger lines. The full-grain finished Brick Settler leather suits the Work Oxford's positioning as a heritage shoe suitable for both casual wear and light work applications, with the smooth finish allowing regular polishing to maintain refined appearance.

The concentration of Brick Settler applications in the Beckman and Work Oxford models, both built on last No. 8, suggests intentional pairing of the distinctive brick coloration with Red Wing's heritage last known for refined work boot proportions. The limited application scope reflects Brick Settler's positioning as a special-release color variation rather than a core production option, with uses chosen to create distinctive offerings within Red Wing's product strategy while preserving the color's association with premium, limited edition releases.

Care and Maintenance

Brick Settler requires the same maintenance approach recommended for all Settler leather variations, following Red Wing's care protocols for smooth-finished, oil and wax treated leathers. The leather is grouped with Featherstone, Pioneer, and Chaparral in Red Wing's care guidance due to similar construction and finish characteristics requiring boot cream conditioning and regular cleaning to maintain protective properties and distinctive luster.

Regular cleaning begins with removing surface dirt using a dry cloth to wipe away loose debris. For routine maintenance, warm water and a soft bristle brush effectively remove accumulated dirt without stripping the leather's protective oils and waxes. When heavily soiled, Red Wing's Leather Cleaner may be applied with a cloth or brush, then wiped away with a damp cloth. The leather must dry completely before conditioning to ensure proper product absorption and prevent moisture interference with conditioning agents.

Conditioning maintains the oil and wax content that provides both protective properties and the smooth, slightly waxy surface feel characteristic of Settler leather. Red Wing Boot Cream serves as the primary conditioning product, with its formula combining neutral and colored waxes with lanolin to prevent leather drying while building the polished, radiant finish that enhances Brick Settler's natural luster and color depth. Application involves using fingers, cloth, or sponge to spread a light, even coat across the leather surface, paying particular attention to seams and welt areas to promote structural integrity and flexibility.

The brick coloration benefits from conditioning that deepens the red-brown tone while maintaining natural color variation. Regular boot cream application develops even patina that enhances rather than obscures the leather's natural character, with the brick tone gaining richness and depth through proper maintenance. The frequency of conditioning depends on usage patterns and environmental exposure, typically requiring treatment every few months for typical wear conditions, with more frequent conditioning needed for footwear experiencing regular wetting or harsh environmental exposure.

For additional protection, Red Wing Leather Protector may be applied by lightly misting the leather from six to eight inches away in a sweeping motion, providing a shield against dirt accumulation and moisture penetration while maintaining breathability. When properly maintained with regular cleaning, appropriate conditioning, and protective treatment, Brick Settler leather develops even patina that deepens the brick tone and enhances grain character while preserving the material's structural integrity and water resistance through extended use.

Availability

Brick Settler availability follows the limited release pattern characteristic of Settler color variations, with documented applications now discontinued from current Red Wing Heritage production. The Beckman 9022, originally released as a Japanese exclusive, and the Work Oxford 8052 represent the primary finished footwear models featuring this distinctive brick coloration, with both models no longer available through official Red Wing retail channels.

For consumers seeking finished footwear in Brick Settler leather, the secondary market represents the primary source. The discontinued status of both documented applications contributes to limited availability, with examples appearing occasionally on resale platforms, collector forums, and vintage boot marketplaces. The regional exclusive nature of the Beckman 9022's original release further restricts supply, as production quantities were intentionally limited for the Japanese market before broader discontinuation.

For leatherworkers and small-scale bootmakers seeking Brick Settler as raw material, availability through craft leather suppliers is limited compared to more widely distributed S.B. Foot leathers such as Harness or Legacy. The leather's production history focused on Red Wing Heritage applications rather than broader leather goods markets, restricting supply channels for individual craftspeople. Custom leather requests may be submitted directly to S.B. Foot Tanning Company through their website contact options, allowing specialized orders to be evaluated by their technical team, though minimum quantities and lead times would apply to custom production runs of specific color variations.

The limited availability of Brick Settler reflects its positioning as a special-release color variation within the Settler leather family, chosen for distinctive offerings that appeal to collectors and heritage footwear enthusiasts seeking alternatives to standard Red Wing Heritage colorways. This approach maintains Brick Settler's association with limited edition releases while preserving its status as a noteworthy color choice when examining the full range of Settler leather applications across Red Wing's heritage boot history.

References

  • 1.

    "Leathers". S.B. Foot Tanning Company. Retrieved October 14, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Red Wing Shoes 9023 Beckman in Walnut Settler". Red Wing Amsterdam. Retrieved October 14, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Work Oxford 8052". Red Wing Heritage. Retrieved October 14, 2025.

  • 4.

    "The Red Wing Care Guide | Built To Last". Number Six London. Retrieved October 14, 2025.

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